Project: RS2 ABY

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  • Sonic
    replied
    My temp gauge doesn't work on the dash

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  • driftin jo
    replied
    Don't you get boost reduced at ~108 deg ? If not I would want it that way
    in the tune as you cant always look at the dash when pushing it.

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  • Rocco
    replied
    I'd be very worried for the head gasket with repeatedly 120 degrees...

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  • Jamo
    replied
    120 coolant? wtf, time for an ally rad and rs2 water pump if your not running one, if you are going to track it low temp thermostat as well

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  • Error404
    replied
    120 is pretty bloody hot!! You are asking a lot of the stock rad IMHO, with the water cooled waste-gate as well as running a lot of boost on track in 30deg ambient!

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  • driftin jo
    replied
    I think the problem is the coolant temp, as said before the oil is always going to be ~ 30 deg hotter than the coolant when pushing it and as his coolant was 120 deg I would say address that problem first then see what the oil temps are.

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  • Jamo
    replied
    IIRC your oilcooler isn't that beefy in modding terms, it's way better than stock but it's a 13 row from memory. Likely you need a bigger one with bigger lines

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  • prj
    replied
    In that case check the torque on the head bolts and make sure that the head is still in place.

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  • Sonic
    replied
    The oil cooler is pretty beefy already, it's some Setrab thing that Will installed, not stock.

    The rad is a behr replacement from standard, but ac is removed so airflow is massively increased... not sure how much i could change that given the reverse inlet setup.

    I've absolutely thrashed the car previously on the roads and track and it's not been a problem, so i'm not getting worked up over it, just trying to understand possible causes.

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  • Error404
    replied
    I would say so yes, I think really you need a more efficient / larger core rad and oil cooler mate. Do you have an RS2 water pump? Maybe that would also help in combination.

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  • prj
    replied
    The thermostat is not going to affect it on hard thrashing anyway.
    I don't know why people assume it will.

    Yes, the initial warmup phase will take a bit longer, since it's open at a lower temperature, but regardless - at around 90C the standard thermostat is wide open.

    If the temps keep going up that means the cooling of the system is insufficient. Opening it at 70C or 80C just means that it will take a tiny bit longer, but if you were hitting 120C before, you're going to hit it again.

    It's elementary physics...

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  • Sonic
    replied
    Just a thought but could this increase in coolant and subsequently oil temps be a result of the coolant now also being passed through the TiAL wastegate.. i mean with high ambient temps and thrashing it all day, that's really got to heat it up some, no?

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  • A80Avant
    replied
    The whole purpose of keeping the engine cool at cost of a bit of economy is something I have gone for. Besides remember the 220 or 315hp engine was meant to have the engine running at 90C. We are upping the power by 100%. A bit of safety is something I don't mind. Gives more space. Afterall the engine wont run rich since mapped for those temperatures.

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Originally posted by Sonic
    No, what should they be at? 140 iirc?
    IIRC 65ftlbs when using molyslip lube.

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  • driftin jo
    replied
    Originally posted by Sonic
    No, what should they be at? 140 iirc?
    80 ft lb or 108 Nm

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