AAN into Ur quattro, 400-450 Bhp Target

[Jamo]

PWR chargecoolers are the shizzle and that price is cheaper than Thor racing

[URquattroGus]

I am seriously considering fitting something like this: http://www.advancedvehicletuning.co....roducts_id=207

Sorry, struggleing to post link on my mobile.

What do you guys think? Less pressure drop and a simpler inlet tract...

[URquattroGus]

Well, I've now clutched at another straw somewhat...

Today I fitted another wastegate, I bought it from EFI express as reconditioned.

My existing one had some play in the shaft, and I was not 100% sure it was sealing correctly. I wondered if it was not staying fully shut etc and imcreasing spool up time and or lag.

The good thing is that I used the spring and cap from the origional wastegate, so no messing around with the spring tension and boost levels to get it as it was.

I thought I was going to notice a differences because the refurbed one had a nice tight, slop free valve guide and the old one had some play.

It's made no difference at all! at least it's one thing eliminated.

I bought the "refurbed" one without a new diapragm, so I fitted the nearly new one from the old wastegate.

The only thing I noticed between the two wastegates was that the one EFI express sent me had no seating washer on the threaded top part of the valve (sits on top of the shaft and below the diapragm)

I put the washer in (about 5mm thick) as it was in the old one and seemed correct to me. Potentially this could effect how much boost between the old and new cap due to the 5mm less or more?? I put it on as it seemed correct and spreads the load. In any case it's consistant with the old one.

I never enjoy doing up flexpipe bolts/nuts, not much space to play with!

[newsh]

True, much more reliable way to do it.

[prj]

Actually the way the wastegate preload should be checked, is the electrical connector should be disconnected from the N75 valve.

THEN do a full throttle pull, and note the boost level.

You can't do this with N75 attached, especially when re-setting the preload, as Motronic will adapt all the time, and you will get undershoot and overshoot eventually.

[newsh]

As Darren says, just check the boost before changing the WG and re check and adjust afterwards if necessary.

[20Vcqdriver]

Not that much progrees at the moment. I'm sorting out a couple of small things like new door seals before the 30-130mph day at RAF Marham.


I actually rung and emailed Pro Alloy about coming up with some new intercoolers.

They were helpful enough the first time on the phone and I emailed some pictures.

I left it a few dayus and then phoned up to chase up. That was two weeks ago and I have not heard anything.

Dissapointing really as I was poetntially prepared to spend some presumably quite serious money on some custom coolers.

Wastegate wise, How do I check i don't have creep or some other problem?

I can take the wastegate off, but what scares me is taking it apart or adjusting it as it has been mapped and the spring pre load was adjsuted down for boost control.

Intersetingly they used the origional spring and not the 1.9 Bar one I thought they would use.

Pete Berry fitted new diapragms etc when the engine was built.

Maybe I should order an aftermarket or another wastegate, but surely this means having it mapped yet again!?

Filter cover looks good and not a million miles from mine though it looks on the small side. I am using a K&N RX2820 rated upto 600bhp so be plenty of spare capacity
Have you thought of using a water to air charge cooler. works really well on mine and is also rated upto 600bhp and keep pipework length short too.

[DJones]

Leave the bolt and the top chamber as is. In the rs2 in stock the bolt is at approx. 11mm measured from the top of the cap. Measure from the top and leave it the same. 0.5mm more or less will not do so much of a difference.

Set it visually as close as you can, do a 4th gear pull (before you take it apart) and record what boost is reached on your boost gauge, and do the same with your new cap/waste-gate and adjust the screw until you get the same reading.

Darren.

[Billman]

Leave the bolt and the top chamber as is. In the rs2 in stock the bolt is at approx. 11mm measured from the top of the cap. Measure from the top and leave it the same. 0.5mm more or less will not do so much of a difference.

[URquattroGus]

I've got a spare WG if you want to try it.

Thanks, my only concern is whether I can replace the wastegate easily, maybe I could count the threads on the existing one?

It's been mapped with that gate, so I would worry about over boosting etc.

Does anyone know if there is anyway around this or do I need to get it mapped for the 3rd time!?

[newsh]

I've got a spare WG if you want to try it.

[URquattroGus]

have been looking at this:

http://www.efiexpress.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=56{7}51

Maybe I have some guide wear in the valve I have now?

[Billman]

With log I mean to see at what RPM does the turbo spool now. I thought you didn't run the car with the new filter.

[URquattroGus]

When you say make a log, data log pressure drop etc?

It drives just the same with this new air filter. Maybe a bit better up top end, but that is probably my imagination.

I think there is a problem somewhere else (see above)

[Billman]

Make a log and see how it runs! maybe it is solved