My 95 S2 Avant Project. LZ5T Coolness

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  • Vorsprung durch Technik
    replied
    Congrats!! That looks really nice!! Has there been any post paint buffing or are you going to do some of that yourself? Can't wait to see it fully assembled. You've got 21 days left to get it ready for ADI It would be nice though to see it in the flesh.

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  • andy10v
    replied
    Shiny!

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  • irishs2
    replied
    Car is back!










    Last edited by irishs2; 11 July 2017, 20:36.

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  • mcandmar
    replied
    Originally posted by irishs2

    Also note, the display doesn't show live current or voltage, just what the unit is set to.
    Eric, once you press the OK button to enable the output you can press it again to toggle between the Volts and Amps readout, both are the real time readings of the output. You can also adjust each value while its running, i.e. display the current output and the +/- will adjust the set current limit on the fly etc.

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  • urS6Tom
    replied
    I love this thread! Thanks for the carpet tips.

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  • irishs2
    replied
    Originally posted by Error404
    cool, we I have ordered one so thanks for the tip, save me ****ing about with that stupid wire spring
    I can use Solidworks to work out my surface area to the nearest mm2 on my parts

    cheers pal

    DC-DC Converter arrived.

    It works fine.

    It uses the position of the '.' to show volts or amps, 00.00 display is Voltage, and the 0.000 display is current.

    I just set the current high say 1A, and set the voltage to approx 0.9V, or there abouts.

    That will put the converter in Voltage limiting mode. (the green CV led)
    Current will be limited by that, and will adjust automatically depending on size of object you put in the bath. So no calculations needed.

    Also note, the display doesn't show live current or voltage, just what the unit is set to. You can verify it the first few times by using the multimeter.

    PDF manual here








    Attached Files

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  • Error404
    replied
    Haha, I am sure you figure all that out mate

    Can't wait to see the pics of it with fresh paint

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  • irishs2
    replied
    Looks ideal and very neat.


    So I also decided to rebuild the heater box. Its manual non-aircon that maybe sometime in the future I can upgrade, but for now it will do.


    Mold and disintegrating foam. The foam had a horrible sticky feeling.







    In a fashion like the headliner foam, all the foam was falling apart.


    Plates were cleaned, and blasted to give the Super90 to key to.
    I used heavy speaker cloth. Seems ideal.




    And back together again.


    I also removed the fan and cleaned out that part.

    I think my car will be back Tuesday fingers crossed, so looking forward to putting things back together but also getting kinda nervous as I cannot remember where a lot of the interior bits go, but hopefully can figure it out along the way.
    Last edited by irishs2; 11 July 2017, 20:36.

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  • mcandmar
    replied
    Its a Hammond 1401AAA http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1401AAA.pdf

    Inside is one of these transformers http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201167963920, there was just enough room left over to squeeze in a small pcb for the bridge rectifier and a few large filter caps. Board itself is getting 30v at a couple of amps which is more than i will ever need.

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  • irishs2
    replied
    Cool, what is that case is it attached to?

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  • mcandmar
    replied
    Originally posted by irishs2
    Yes, but you control the current with that converter, the voltage will drop the match.
    I am going to get that unit too, keep the xzy for my electronic tasks.
    I can highly recommend that DC-DC converter board as i'm using one as a bench power supply. You can set voltage and/or current limits, view both real time, and includes short circuit protection. Its really is a bargain at that price.

    At the moment its just powering a computer fan for some refreshing airflow
    Attached Files

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  • irishs2
    replied
    I dont know if my method works best but here is what I did.

    First I dry vacuumed , to get rid of the lose dirt.


    Then wet vacuumed with a VAX wet/dry cleaner. Its older than the S2 but still cleans well. its got a clear head and you can see the dirt being sucked out of the carpet.



    Then I used a steam cleaner, its one of those cheap aldi/lidl ones that I didnt have any faith in but actually produces a good amount of steam at pressure. I used this to kill any mouldy smell so that the carpet cleaner would have an easier time. It also softened the carpet a little.



    Example of the steam, while cleaning my dash.



    Than waited for the carpet to dry and used this Turtlewax carpet cleaner.
    This is great stuff, and smells great too.
    I used this 3 times over. Following the directions on the can.

    I used this stuff before :
    Last edited by irishs2; 11 July 2017, 20:36.

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  • urS6Tom
    replied
    Originally posted by irishs2
    Carpet was manky, but good (apart for a little tear I put in it when removing it. might get away with it though)


    After its first clean. The carpet has gone though 4 cleaning cycles. Visually it didnt get better, but I kept going until I was happy with it aromatically.
    What did the cleaning cycles on the carpet involve? I'm about to do mine, so interested to know what method works best!

    cheers,
    Tom

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  • Error404
    replied
    cool, we I have ordered one so thanks for the tip, save me ****ing about with that stupid wire spring
    I can use Solidworks to work out my surface area to the nearest mm2 on my parts

    cheers pal

    Leave a comment:


  • irishs2
    replied
    Yes, but you control the current with that converter, the voltage will drop the match.
    I am going to get that unit too, keep the xzy for my electronic tasks.

    Leave a comment:

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