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Sorry to join this thread so late but I started at the beginning and bumped into your ARP crank main stud installation. Based on a recent thread re: crushing the oil pressure check valve, which keeps the oil in the head when the engine is shut off, I wonder whether you remember installint a shorter ARP stud in the left side No. 3 crank main, i.e. No. 3, top of the photo below. If you used a normal length stud there, the lifter failure could be related to a lack of oil in the head on start-up.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
Well well, today wasn't really a fun day. Found that a knocking noise showed up so I took the camcover off tonight finding one lifter that had about 1 mm of play. The lifters are 034 Motorsport lightweight ones, or that is what the seller said they are.
I have seen 034 "lightweight" lifters that had shattered in a high hp AAN. The owner (Chris M) said:
"I don't attribute the shattered lifter to rpms, but to 200k mile valve springs, 7A cams and alot of 6500-7000+ rpm usage. The lifters had appx. 40k miles on them at the time of failure and all showed signs of "hammering" which is probably due to valve float. Again, I believe this was caused by using higher than stock lift cams (7A int/exh) with weak/old valve springs. If your head's off, now would be a great time to install a fresh set of OE or HD springs regardless of what cams you use. Either O.E. type or "lightweight" lifters should be fine after that."
Sorry to join this thread so late but I started at the beginning and bumped into your ARP crank main stud installation. Based on a recent thread re: crushing the oil pressure check valve, which keeps the oil in the head when the engine is shut off, I wonder whether you remember installint a shorter ARP stud in the left side No. 3 crank main, i.e. No. 3, top of the photo below. If you used a normal length stud there, the lifter failure could be related to a lack of oil in the head on start-up.
I knew of the problem with the check valve before doing this. I installed the stud with the check valve taken out from the block to see how far I'd need to cut it. Then when it was cut I installed the stud again to check it wouldn't reach the valve and crushing it.
I have seen 034 "lightweight" lifters that had shattered in a high hp AAN. The owner (Chris M) said:
"I don't attribute the shattered lifter to rpms, but to 200k mile valve springs, 7A cams and alot of 6500-7000+ rpm usage. The lifters had appx. 40k miles on them at the time of failure and all showed signs of "hammering" which is probably due to valve float. Again, I believe this was caused by using higher than stock lift cams (7A int/exh) with weak/old valve springs. If your head's off, now would be a great time to install a fresh set of OE or HD springs regardless of what cams you use. Either O.E. type or "lightweight" lifters should be fine after that."
I used a socket and tapped into place with a smear of silicone sealant on the sealing edge in the block. I don't remember the size though but I got carried away doing this so I used the same socket on the center one with the pipe resulting in a cracked block. I shuld have gone looking for the deeper one before it was too late.
The plugs were bought from VAG.
It goes quite well.
There are some electrical gremlins - sometimes it just does not want to start and ECU complains about implausible signal for RPM sender, then other times it can start five times in a row perfectly.
Sometimes when turning the ignition off the engine stays running.
The turbo on it is quite interesting. Similar to a GT3071R, but a bit laggier.
Boost is 2.1 bar and 1.9 to redline, the car has a 016 gearbox, so 3rd gear is a lot shorter and full boost is 4500 rpm in 3rd.
However, in 4th gear it is 3900. FATS times are 1.8 sec for 3rd gear and 3.4 sec for 4th gear.
Due to the light weight the car is quite fast, even if power wise it is "only" somewhere around 440 hp.
Compared to previous map it now has less boost and wider power band. I have no idea if it is any faster, but I am happy with how the map came out.
Audi UrS4 Avant 2.5 20vt - twincharged - Project
Audi 80q B4 Sedan 2.2 20vt - Daily user
BMW 320d Touring e91 M-Sport - Daily user
BMW 740iA e38 - Project
Well well. I've been driving this for several weeks without problems, but now was the time for one to arise
I went last friday to the track and well there I drove about 10 laps before going in to the pit. When getting the car to a standstill a small cloud of smoke rose from the engine bay
The heat from the exhaust manifold and turbo set the heat protection for some wiring on fire Obiously routed a bit too close.
When coming into the pit the car was running fine, but the next time trying to start it it wouldn't want to start. It was flooding. Tried to disconnect the MAF and gave it a go and still wouldn't want to start. I had a look at the wiring and pulled all the molten crap apart from each other and reinsulated them with PVC tape, going to do it better later on.
Now I got it starting, but barely running at first. Later on it run somewhat fine but if turning the engine off I had a nightmare getting it running again.
So I drove it home the 50ish kilometers when I got it running as it was being crazy rich, but drivable.
Well at home I drove it straight into the garage, but having it sitting a while searching for the VAG-COM cable it wouldn't start again. I had it sitting for a day or two and went doing some drinking myself
Next time trying to start it I disconnected the MAF and it started quite quickly, running at first only on 4 but all 5 came to live after a brief moment. Cleared all the codes and went for a drive to bring some codes to the surface. This is what I got.
These are the codes I had after the test drive. MAF code is obvious as it's unplugged. Earlier I had some more codes, something to do with the throttle body, boost limit exceeded and vehicle top speed overrun.
When it's running now with MAF unconnected and has done since the wiring melt;
- Really rich at cruising speeds. AFR 10.2-11.2. Going up in revs it would go leaner. Visiting some boost it would go over to the lean side seeing 16s. Sitting on idle it starts from 10s going up slowly to 14.7 area and behaving normal. As soon as I touch the throttle it goes back down to 10s
-Trying WOT at any stage it would cut out and just stutter holding the revs. Strangely building a little bit of boost.
I don't really know how it should behave with just MAF being faulty / unplugged. But obviously something is toast. Either MAF it self, ECU or still something in the wiring.
MAF disconnected is limp home mode, it's going to run like crap and it's supposed to be running just enough to limp home.
You should not attempt boosting it in that state as that is definitely not healthy for the engine.
The short might have damaged the MAF, but might also not have damaged it... you need to check all the pins continuity to and from the ecu as well as for shorts.
I just tried boosting some to see how it behaves. Never run a car with MAF disconnected so this behaviour is new to me.
Can you post up ur mail me the pic you have of the RS4 connector wiring Dmitri? It would probably make the continuity and shorts testing a bit easier knowing it.
I just tried boosting some to see how it behaves. Never run a car with MAF disconnected so this behaviour is new to me. Can you post up ur mail me the pic you have of the RS4 connector wiring Dmitri? It would probably make the continuity and shorts testing a bit easier knowing it.
I'm obviously not Dmitri but I am awake (why are you?) and have this link to AAN/ABY/ADU MAF info, including wiring diagrams and tests that you might find useful:
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