From Audi 100 to urS4 in a week

[Christophski]

It doesnt look quite right, I think if you take the door moldings off you have to do the same to the bumpers

Agreed... or maybe body colour the bumper mouldings at least?

[hunker7]

I'll try removing the mouldigs from rear bumper and front bumper too, see how that looks

[newsh]

You'll get supermarket trolley scratches down the side!
Looks good though

[hunker7]

Been thinking of going 'clean looks' for some time, but need to do some more photoshopping to be sure.

[UrS4boy]

yay or nay? (no door mouldings)

We have a name for that look (including the bumpers).

We call it an "UrS6"

[hunker7]

We have a name for that look (including the bumpers).

We call it an "UrS6"

TO my eyes it just looks weird, I don't like the angle at which front lights are on the grill side, or rear lights on the number plate side.

Ideally I'd like to get n-america's front bumper and possibly color code/remove side moldings. Not sure about the rear yet.

[hunker7]

naah, not a fan of "no bumper trims"

[UrS4boy]

naah, not a fan of "no bumper trims"

Nice S6

[hunker7]

This looks nice imo

[irishs2]

I like them too

[hunker7]

I might make the plastic molding from one peace, so it looks neater and leave the numberplate in.

[hunker7]

As I said before I have had issues with fuel consumption. Getting 15mpg around town and 26mpg on a longer motorway run. Tyres are 225/45. According to vag, coolant temp. sensor is working ok, as I used measuring blocks and temperature was climbing steadily (is there any other way of checking the temp sensor?)

Checked MAF using one of Dave's write ups:

1. Testing for ground: Disconnect the harness connector from the MAF. Set your DMM to 20 ohms and look for continuity between Pin 1 (Pin 6 is the empty position) and ground on the engine or chassis. Not continuity = you have a ground issue involving that Brown/red wire. Start tracing back, looking for a broken wire. Won't be fun.

2. Testing for connection to the injector circuit: Turn the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect to Pin 5 and ground. Turn on the ignition. You should get some positive DC volts.

3. Checking MAF function: With harness connector removed, switch DMM to 200 ohms. Connect DMM probes to terminals 1 and 2 on the MAF (1 is on the right, 6 is on the left). Record the resistance. Disconnect leads and "Short" the circuit (press probe ends together). Display value must equal value recorded previously.

If the difference is greater than 0.1 Ohm, replace MAF.

Re-connect the MAF sensor harness connector. Peel back the rubber boot on the connector to expose the terminals. Switch the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect the DMM to the back side of Terminals 1 and 3. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (run) but don't start the engine. Should be 1.2 to 1.5 Volts. Start the engine and let idle. Voltage reading should now be 2.5 volts. Increase the engine speed briefly (manually move the throttle position to more open). Voltage should increase to 3.0 to 5.0 volts (depending on engine speed). All the of the specified voltages must be obtained. If NO = replace MAF.

Reading I got was :

1. I got 0.09 ohms between pin 1 and ground
2. Injector circuit test came up with 12.15v
3. Testing MAF functionality I got 0.08 ohms (same as between pin 1 and 2)
4. Between pin 1 and 3 I got 1.42v, at idle it was 2.43 and when reving the engine, it went upto 4.6v.

There are no errors codes still and boost is all ok

[Majorcina]

U changed fuel lines under car if i reamember good? Maybe u got a leak there

[hunker7]

I can check, but doubt that. Still need to check intake air temp. sensor. I do get a like whistling noise from the turbo, I can make a video tonight, dunno if that's normal.

[UrS4boy]

Another example of MAF testing results

Just for comparison, here are my MAF testing results:

G70 MAF info post: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20442.phtml

1. Testing for ground: Disconnect the harness connector from the MAF. Set your DMM to 20 ohms and look for continuity between Pin 1 (Pin 6 is the empty position) and ground on the engine or chassis. My result = 0.5 ohms = continuity = there is a ground for the MAF = good to go so far

2. Testing for connection to the injector circuit: Turn the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect to Pin 5 and ground. Turn on the ignition. You should get some positive DC volts. My result: 11.1 V = good

3. Checking MAF function: With harness connector removed, switch DMM to 200 ohms. Connect DMM probes to terminals 1 and 2 on the MAF (1 is on the right, 6 is on the left). Record the resistance. My result: 0.000 ohms
Disconnect leads and "Short" the circuit (press probe ends together). Display value must equal value recorded previously. My result: 0.000 ohms = same = good

If the difference is greater than 0.1 Ohm, replace MAF. (Nope. All is good so far)

Re-connect the MAF sensor harness connector. Peel back the rubber boot on the connector to expose the terminals. Switch the DMM to 20 VDC. Connect the DMM to the back side of Terminals 1 and 3. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" (run) but don't start the engine. Should be 1.2 to 1.5 Volts. My result: 1.25 V

Start the engine and let idle. Voltage reading should now be 2.5 volts. My result: 2.50 V
Increase the engine speed briefly (manually move the throttle position to more open). Voltage should increase to 3.0 to 5.0 volts (depending on engine speed). My result: 3.05 V

All the of the specified voltages must be obtained. If NO = replace MAF. (Nope, all good)