Audi S1.5 [OEM+] - (10-valve turbo B3 Coupé)

[M_GORDON]

A Turbotimer is too cheap
and however you don't see your turbo at red, maybe it goes on some situations.

[LeafBox]

2018 - Part 4

Last week was quiet in lack of... Well, everything.
But this week we got some things done atleast, but a pair of lost seals put a damper on the progress...

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First of, my new turbo showed up, exciting! It's a stock K24 (7000) that some Norwegian dude named Vidar Skotheim restomodded.
It now has a 360° bearing, billet impellers, and both sides a just a taaad bigger. Looking forward to a testrun!







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I also took the opportunity to swap the hydraulic lifters. Besides being 30 years old, one of them used to stick sometimes and make a terrible racket.
Also it gives me chance to swap the oil seal on the camshaft.





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But since we now was stuck because of the lack of seals, I grabbed myself in the collar and did something you all suggested. Check the main bearing clearance.
I thought that IF I needed bearings, I'd better not waste tame putting it together just to rip it apart again.

Plastigage was bought and the caps on cylinder 1&3 was tested.
Spec 'as new' according to the manual is 0.018-0.058mm. And both of my test gave <0.051(which is the red ones min.clearing)

The bearings also looked very nice, so this shouldn't be the source of my oil-problem. Which is nice but confusing.
I'm still not convinced that the oil pump is the issue, and if it's not, where's my oil pressure going? Time will tell I guess.





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As mentioned. A couple of runaway oil seals hindered my work, but they're expected to show up maybe Tuesday?
And then I'll quickly throw everything back together and hope my oil pressure is back. If that's the case, I'll install a wideband o2 sensor, do some tinkering, and book a dyno run.

[LeafBox]

2018 - Part 5

My missing oil seals finally showed up. So we quickly kicked it into high gear!
Reassembly isn't very interesting, a bunch of pics of gaskets mostly, but a couple fun parts showed up!

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Innovate wideband. Can never have enough gauges!
Hidden in the glove compartment as to not stand out. Probably gonna use a bit of velcro to keep it pointed against the driver.





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Engine back together, also modified the front engine mount. You guys get it.



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Then I took it for a spin, we did all this for a reason...




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oil pressure - Still unchanged. Still low according to the gauge, but I'm starting to suspect something is either wrong with the gauge or my method.
I swapped the oil pump, main bearings 'as new', fresh turbo that doesn't leak and the oil isn't disappearing. The engine also runs smooth and quiet.
Not a hint of noise despite the fact that the gauge shows <0.5bar at idle.

I'm gonna swap in another stock sender and check again. But after that I don't know what the next move is. Conrod bearings? But at <0.5bar without noise?
I'd expect the engine to tap and knock like crazy at that point...

New turbo - THIS. THIS RIGHT HERE. The boost is coming on notably sooner and spools QUICK. I'll bring the camera with me next test drive!

New BOV - The last couple of BOV's didn't work very well because they couldn't keep shut or shut quickly enough.
But this dual piston one seems perfect for the job. Opens nicely and shuts without giving me problem with lost/terrible idle. It is an open design, and makes a stupid silly noise. But I guess I'll live with it...

Wideband O2 - Painless installation. Seems to be working fine. Shows a bit lean on idle, but is pretty much perfect under load.
So no I'll just crank the boost until it starts leaning out

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I'll head out again tomorrow and install the turbohat (ofc I forgot it), check for leaks, fill some fluids, dig out another oil sender.
Then testdrive again and probably mount the other headlight. But after that I think I'll call the local dyno and set up a run.

[LeafBox]

2018 - Part 6

Looks like I tore down the engine for no reason... Seems to have been the sender all along.
The external gauge seems to either be faulty or my method doesn't work. I can't understand why though...

Installed another OEM-sender - Boom. Nah prahblem.
So that whole thing was for nothing it seems. But silver lining is that we found out that the turbo was toast.

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A little test-run video. I know the AFR is a bit high. I even comment on it.
But I'm gonna make sure the flanges on the bit of pipe the O2 is installed on isn't leaking before I worry about it.

[steve briance]

Great news about your oil pressure being fine. My dad always used to say that he didn't want a car with an oil g gauge or light, it is juts there to make you worry and if it ever did light up it is too late anyway! Not sure about it being too late but he seems wise about the worry. It's a shame you had to strip down to find out but now you KNOW all is good.

The car sounds pretty mean as well

[LeafBox]

Great news about your oil pressure being fine. My dad always used to say that he didn't want a car with an oil g gauge or light, it is juts there to make you worry and if it ever did light up it is too late anyway! Not sure about it being too late but he seems wise about the worry. It's a shame you had to strip down to find out but now you KNOW all is good.

The car sounds pretty mean as well

Haha, your dad sounds just like mine

Thanks! With the new turbo she's a mini-beast.
It's kinda like having a girlfriend. She sounds angry and could technically kill you, but she's so small it's hard to take it seriously...

[LeafBox]

2018 - Part 6.5

So I refitted the bit of pipe with the O2-sensor in it with some 'exhaust-paste' to make sure everything was air tight and took it for another spin.
While at idle and cruising it was hovering 16isch, which seems to be fine for that scenario. While giving it full throttle it does kinda of a hickup while hitting low 17's but then gets on with it and hovers around 14.5. Twice it did go down to 12-13 and felt a bit peppier, but that was on flat road while starting above 3k rpm, so maybe because of less load?

I've done a lot of CIS-tune research the last week. So I've "relayed" the fuel pump. And I assume that my chip has upped the duty cycle of the return injector a bit.
So it seems like the most reasonable thing for me to do next is to adjust the control-pressure. From what I've read you do that by adjusting the position of this little brass(?) cylinder.


The idea is to move the cylinder up/down in it's hole to adjust the pressure. So my idea was to drill and tap a hole, locktite a threaded rod in it and use a nut on top so I can easily pull it back out and also keep it in place. Because I've read so many post with people pushing 1.4bar (20psi) while having a 10-11 AFR-value. But I'd love to hear some input from the almighty CIS-gurus on this one.

[slacky]

More nice progress , sounds the dogs ******

[LeafBox]

2018 - Part 7

So I went ahead and did the 'control-pressure mod'


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After that I did some tinkering and took a couple of test runs. And I think I'm on the right track.
The AFR doesn't shoot up to 17 anymore while flooring it, but instead seems to stick to whatever value was present at the time. And when it takes off, the 'worst' runs was high 14's.

I think there's some more tinkering to be done here, and trying to tune his on the street is clearly not a good way to do it.
I'd love to tune it on a dyno where I could lock the load and get some consistent values. That's the biggest issue right now.

I know I'm going to the dyno very soon, but I don't wanna waste time messing about with this then. And I don't know if the dyno-guys would be very appreciative if I book a dyno-run then starts tuning on the spot.

I'll do some more test-n-tune during easter, but then it'll have to do. I got more things to do and a short time to do it in.

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More nice progress , sounds the dogs ******

Thanks man!
Yeah she sound pretty mean.

[quattro-nick]

maybe it's better in the future to convert from k-jetronic to a standalone ecu..........
This is a one-time major cost but then you will never have any worries later on future upgrades
respect for all your work that you have already put in your car

[LeafBox]

maybe it's better in the future to convert from k-jetronic to a standalone ecu..........
This is a one-time major cost but then you will never have any worries later on future upgrades
respect for all your work that you have already put in your car

Oh it's by far the most logical thing to do, no question.
There is a couple of semi-valid reasons I haven't though, biggest of which has to do with Swedish modifying laws.

Someday maybe, but for now I'll keep struggling to learn this black magic

[steve briance]

Have you ever heard of K Star? I've no idea if it is still around or available second hand but it was a very clever bit of kit that allowed 'tuning' of kJet cars. I had the box on my scirocco gtx that allowed ignition AND fuelling adjustments. Made big difference after being able to tune after fitting stage 1 head and cam. It worked on the fuel by fitting an injector in parallel (I think) to the fuel regulator and the box allowed the extra tandem injector to bleed pressure or not to allow adjustment of fuel figures. If its still around, it is your answer! I. Bought mine maybe 15-16years ago and it was popular at the time with classic porsche tuners.

[De80q]

With the laws of your land prohibiting aftermarket computers, why not swap in the ECU and harness from a 3B engine? There are plenty of people who have done it here in the states with no issues. It's pretty straight forward, and is a factory engine management system. You would still need some aftermarket parts to fit the EFI injectors and things, but it's something to look into I would think.

[quattrostyle]

Thanks! With the new turbo she's a mini-beast.
It's kinda like having a girlfriend. She sounds angry and could technically kill you, but she's so small it's hard to take it seriously...

[LeafBox]

Have you ever heard of K Star? I've no idea if it is still around or available second hand but it was a very clever bit of kit that allowed 'tuning' of kJet cars. I had the box on my scirocco gtx that allowed ignition AND fuelling adjustments. Made big difference after being able to tune after fitting stage 1 head and cam. It worked on the fuel by fitting an injector in parallel (I think) to the fuel regulator and the box allowed the extra tandem injector to bleed pressure or not to allow adjustment of fuel figures. If its still around, it is your answer! I. Bought mine maybe 15-16years ago and it was popular at the time with classic porsche tuners.

I'd never heard of Kstar. It made for an interesting read though!
Sadly it doesn't seem to really be a thing anymore

With the laws of your land prohibiting aftermarket computers, why not swap in the ECU and harness from a 3B engine? There are plenty of people who have done it here in the states with no issues. It's pretty straight forward, and is a factory engine management system. You would still need some aftermarket parts to fit the EFI injectors and things, but it's something to look into I would think.

It's not aftermarket computers, the problem is that the rule is worded in such a way it prohibits changing anything that could effect emissions (even for the better). UNLESS you go ethanol, then it's possible. A fact I thought about at the time, but couldn't (back then) justify the expense. If I go ethanol I'm pretty sure I'd need to redo the registration process because my emission values would be all over the place compared to regular gas.

But now when I think about it. My car already has it's "modified stamp", so as long as I still pass emissions I don't think anyone would care if I ran standalone.
Anyhow. Not something I plan on doing right now, but I will check out the 3B-stuff. Could be a cheap alternative to standalone if nothing else!