Does the engine need a rebuild or are you just rebuilding it to make it stronger?
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Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon
Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
Sold ABY-stock -
Just rebuilding it to make it stronger, Andy! it already has almost 300.000km (but no oil consumption with 5w-50, no gases are coming back from the cylinders on the compression cycle...). Only want to take the weakest point(s) out to get a much heavy torque in a near future from it.
Unfortunately to replace the rods the whole engine needs to be opened and since I will be already there...well, everything new.
I'm afraid the turbo upgrade+remap will come later because I was just told there's a husky puppy that I maybe will adopt and well...I know it will take part of my engine project budget
Cheers mate!
PD: My initial idea was to sell the S6, borrow some money from the bank (about 20keuros) since I found a 2010 TT-RS 6speed at 25K euro on sale. But it is a lot of money so maybe the engine rebuild+upgrade would be a lot cheaper keeping the S6 for some more years.Comment
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If you don't have funds for all the parts and there is nothing wrong with the engine I would forget the engine rebuild for now and spend the cash on the turbo and Remap. Just ask the mapper to limit the torque to a safe figure for standard rods.
At least then you can enjoy a circa 400 bhp/600Nm car while you save for an engine rebuild. You may decide that is enough!
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Well 600Nm is beyond the limit of the rod I'm afraid mate lol 500-520 I think it would be already in that dangerous red line
Your idea is also good mate. I just wanted to make the rebuild as my mate that has the workshop will close it's doors on the summer.
What would you do in this case? I also found the rods from FCP for a very good price...don't know now if buy them and keep them for a near future rebuild even.Comment
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Stock rods won't handle 600. I'm looking for the same figures and I went with FCP X-beams for that. Stock can take around 400, maybe 450.
I also did not bore the block nor replace the pistons. I got a quality bottom end, took it to engine builder for measurement and both the cylinder walls and pistons were in very good condition, so no rebore was necessary, left the stock pistons as well. Just re-honed the cylinder walls and threw in a new set of rings and piston pin retainers.
Working on the head rebuild now. And valves are a PITA to source where I live...Comment
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If everything else is ok, and you want to make it "stronger" on the cheap you can just fit rods, replace any gaskets you remove to get to them.
Head gasket kit
Bottom end gasket kit
Forged rods
Rod bearings
I would be aware if you open it costs could escalate quickly, bores stepped, exhaust valve guides worn etc.Current-2004 Impreza PPP wagon
Sold-92 3B coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, rear torsen, forged rods........
Sold ABY-stockComment
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i had the head rebuilt but not worked on.
I put rods in and skimmed poistons on original bore. with original rings. this works fine if engine is good beforehand.
if you bore or hone its new rings. may as well put proper pistons in at that point.
I went
scat rods
skimmed pistons
audi rs2 shells
head gasket
arp bolts
head rebuild
7a camsComment
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So glad that you skipped this idea. Such a bad idea when you consider how much TT-RS will be worth in five years time when the loan is paid off.
Much better to blow a lesser amount on the UrS6 and still have a great car after five years with no depreciation.
I know you've bought a turbo, but an RS2 billet turbo with matching injectors and a map to suit should be enough.
Save the rest of you money for a 2.5L conversion in five years time when someone will have developed a kit out to allow an easy fit of the TT-RS engine to our S cars.
Look how common 1.8T engines are in Mk2 Golfs.
Spend the money you 'save' with a less expensive engine rebuild on a set of 'Pole Positon' Reacaros for the UrS6.
in the interim.
Do the bushes with oem if they need to be done, these cars were lovely and refined when they were new, shame to spoil them with NVH issues.
Uprated springs, shocks, wheels and tyres, brakes, HIDs are fine.
A genuine 380bhp on a UrS6, with matching early spooling torque makes for a pretty quick road car that you can use everyday and still keep your licence in tact.
Just my own thoughts, on what I'd like to do, apart from also suggesting it to you.
Last edited by macspring; 7 February 2016, 21:58.Comment
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I'm pretty sure my bottom end is still very nice mate. No oil consumption, mileage is great yet, pulls quiet good... so maybe will make a bottom refresh with forged rods and close it again
Yes mate i'm afraid that is what i will do...same as you did + main bearings. I will heck those exh guides as well then!
Maybe will replace them if are worn mate. I have some experience with the heads (the pita subaru's heads)
Gazza, sorry but what are the Rs2 Shells mean? Arp bolts are on my list and about the cams i havemy ex coupequattro NM intake cam laying around that probably will use!
Those suggestions probably will become true Mac!So glad that you skipped this idea. Such a bad idea when you consider how much TT-RS will be worth in five years time when the loan is paid off.
Much better to blow a lesser amount on the UrS6 and still have a great car after five years with no depreciation.
I know you've bought a turbo, but an RS2 billet turbo with matching injectors and a map to suit should be enough.
Save the rest of you money for a 2.5L conversion in five years time when someone will have developed a kit out to allow an easy fit of the TT-RS engine to our S cars.
Look how common 1.8T engines are in Mk2 Golfs.
Spend the money you 'save' with a less expensive engine rebuild on a set of 'Pole Positon' Reacaros for the UrS6. in the interim.
Do the bushes with oem if they need to be done, these cars were lovely and refined when they were new, shame to spoil them with NVH issues.
Uprated springs, shocks, wheels and tyres, brakes, HIDs are fine.
A genuine 380bhp on a UrS6, with matching early spooling torque makes for a pretty quick road car that you can use everyday and still keep your licence in tact.
Just my own thoughts, on what I'd like to do, apart from also suggesting it to you.
I thought the same thing about the TTRS...it will still be depreciating more and more (what I really want in the future is an unuseful but lovely 15' Q3rs lolbut keeping the s6).
The suspension on the s6 is not bad but as you said...new bushes! The shocks are the b6 bilsteins, h&r springs -20mm, tires have 3000km, breakes will have only some ferodo ds2500 pads later...4-6 pots are still a bit to expensive and the car brakes good... i have the stock front seats heater kit and tempomat yet to be installed ( have all The bits here at home).. and about the recaros, nice idea tho lol
Thanks for all the suggestions mates!
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I need a rebuild on my aan soon but going to rebuild it on spare aan.
My current aan on my car has a score cylinder on #3.still need to save money
And parts list until we got all the things before the rebuild has begun.one of a few I5 from Asia.Comment
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shells = rod bearings.
I never removed the crank or changed those bearings. my engine like yours was and still is 8 years on very good.
check compression etc first. if all is good no need to change the rings imo.
get the rods and send them and the pistons to a shop and have them weight matched.
I got the head gasket from audi and the rod bearings.
I got the arps from summit racing
the head went to the same shop as the pistons for a full clean up and rebuild.
id stick with stock cams for the rs2 turbo. stock seemed to be more punchy than 7a to me.Comment
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My torque peaks at 600nm at 4100rpm on stock rods. I appreciate it's pushing the boundaries a little. From my research and experience 500nm is considered safe @ 3000 ro 4000rpm and you can raise the torque a little above 4000.
I am considering winding mine down to 550 for piece of mind (a rod upgrade may be next winters job).
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What is your budget for this job?Comment
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