1985 Audi B2 4000 - 20VT conversion

[afterthought]

One I figure out the last of the B-Plug ( need to tie in the starter solenoid and reverse lights) then I will be looking to integrate the signals into the dash. So I should be looking for a T10 plug under the dash somewhere that I should be able to tie into for these items.

If I remember right the T10 Plug looks like this

[Laaf]

You're right I meant B50A yep.
It's tough to do given the space in there but I should be able to take the wire and pin for B50A out of the B plug and transfer the wire over to my new plug to avoid any butt connectors . So in hindsight it may have been easier to just splice the wires for B S and B 15 into the existing connector. But oh well I am on the way now

I just opened the plug and pulled out the old unnecessary wires and crimped new pins onto the required wires. Almost like new, but the car hasn't started since

[afterthought]

Laaf, Im thinking now that may have been easier to do but oh well. I have everything I need in there now I believe, have the starter and washer pump and the wires to the ECU .
Next I have a few things to do on the engine. I need to get the "Small chassis" oil pan on so I can mount the radiator, which is going to be a pain. Try and get that done today by dropping the subframe and hopefully all the bolts cooperate.
Then I need to find a place for the oil cooler, and intercooler, and figure out some plumbing.

[afterthought]

1985 Audi B2 4000 - 20VT conversion

Got the subframe lowered and swapped the oil pan and appropriate pickup tube to go with it. 2 new gaskets. About a 1.5 hour job for me.
I didn't take the subframe all the way out so the ball joints stayed bolted up.

Only had one stuck bolt and was able to hammer in a torx thank god!!




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[Val]

How about these 2 or 3 plugs just behind the speedometer dash?

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Audi/1987/4000CS%20Quattro/WIRING%20DIAGRAMS/fig08.pdf

T10 in your picture looks more like Audi B3, B4 plug but maybe not.

[afterthought]

You're totally correct, its B3 only for that plug I think.

Shifted gears a bit and worked on the rest of the car for a bit.
The subframe, ball joints, tie rods, now are all refreshed.



Haven't done a refresh of the suspension yet (which it needs badly) because I want to have an opportunity to drive the car first again and see what the spring rates feel like before I go changing it up.

Stock oil cooler has gotta go. All rusted up. Thanks Canada.


Intercooler will go in it's place for now. Stolen from UrQuattro.


Lower pipe made up from stainless 2" with a transition to 2.5"


For the upper pipe I found some aluminum , a charge pipe kit I had laying around. thought I would give aluminum welding a try

So for a first try it's not terrible but these cast pipes are very tough to weld. they are brand new, never seen oil, and I sandblasted them clean and wiped down with acetone - still there were impurities coming out.





Starting to look more like a car. Getting things laid out now. Have some issues to work out!
-The catch can needs to move upward to clear the rad fan.
-Not sure where there is any room for the Ign. Coils (will be running LS2 coils)
-No room for ISV. I was thinking about running without it but not sure if that will be difficult to tune.
-Still have harness wiring to plug in the engine bay

[afterthought]

PS Pump in place, Comes very close to the 3B intake. Did a little grinding on the edge of one of the bolt holes to get a little more clearance.



Got the oil cooler mounted up on the drivers side of the bay, too tight on the other side.

[afterthought]

Got a question for you guys familiar with the wiring in these cars.. I seem to have two issues from my wiring.
1) The starter
When the key is turned to "on" everything powers up.
When the key is turned to "start" the starter does not engage. The starter works, but there is no power at B50A in "start" position. 12V can be applied to the starter and it will turn just fine.
*Edit* Start switch was bad.
2) The bigger problem, Fuel. *edit* got that sorted out too
I have the fuel pump relay from AAN
When the key is turned to on the fuel pump primes. Key goes to "Start" and the FP does nothing.
VEMS Plug and Play ECU is seeing 150+ RPM when cranking. Cam POS G28 and Crank POS is plugged in.
I do have spark when cranking.



Used VEMS to verify that the car is seeing a signal from the G28 and G4.