Turbo coolant feed required a slide hammer to pull out.
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Aluminum parts ready to be sent out for vapor blasting.
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Then it was time to start with the fuel lines.
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It is going to be tight with the AN fittings at the back but there is just enough room.
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S2 Avant -93
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Crank journals don't look too bad
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Head has small crack in two cylinders. What would you guys recommend doing with this? My target hp is 500.
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Then is was time to start measuring
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This table shows the cylinder deviation from 81.00mm. Some ovality and taper. Pistons were all worn 0.04mm from stock dimensions, so the block will need a rebore and new pistons.
20241001_132746.jpgLeave a comment:
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I had a friend come by for the weekend and we spent some time in the garage. He also had proper camera on his phone so a couple of good quality pictures for a change
This tank heat shield was rusted away so I got new one from Tradition. It's meant for B5 chassis so it needed some modification. Here it's being primed.
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Tank in place with new stainless straps
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Tearing down the engine
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Shiny bores with no visible hone marks
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Fifth main bearing has a deep groove in the middle. Luckily the crank was ok. Sixth bearing also has clearly visible wear on the coating (top halves are not in order in the pic)
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Conrod bearings also have some wear on them
20241001_101436.jpgLeave a comment:
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Stonechip and underbody protection sprayed, that's the chassis underside pretty much completed
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I have to order one shield from tradition and paint the main fuel tank support before I can start fitting the tank. After that I will be making some fuel lines and brake lines. The engine also needs to be taken apart and measured.Last edited by Antsa; 12 September 2024, 18:32.Leave a comment:
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08800 sprayed and seam sealer applied. I didn't make much effort to make the sealer look nice. I just laid down a bead and leveled with finger. I've seen guys at the Bad Obsession Motorsport (Project Binky) to wipe all the excess sealer off with a wet rag and it makes super smooth looking seams.
Next the wheel arches will receive stone chip coating and the rest underbody protection.
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Man i'd love to give my my car this treatment some day.
Can you confirm that is Sikagard 6470 and not 6440 you're using there? It's difficult to see clearly in the above pic.Leave a comment:
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Bought myself all the things needed for the underside. New chassis bungs weren't exactly cheap from Audi
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All the cavities were waxed
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After that all the bungs were put back in. Hopefully tomorrow I can spray the 3M 08800
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Bit of a milestone today, underside has epoxy primer on. Looks much better now
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Thank you sir! Sometimes it feels that a little less dedication would finish this project someday
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It's again been a long time since the last post. I have been scraping off the underseal with a multitool, then using a wirewheel to remove anything that got left from the scraping. Then I sandblasted all the spots that had rust. The oe coating was also sanded to help the adhesion of the epoxy primer. It has been a major job to get the chassis to this stage
The route I will be taking next:
Epoxy primer
Cavity wax for all cavities
3M 08800
Stone chip coating for wheel arches
Underseal
Sorry for the bad quality picture. The camera on my phone has seen better days
Propably have to buy a new one to get decent pics for this thread.
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The parts are back from from the sandblasting so it was time to give them a coat of paint. The primer was applied by the sand blasting company and I gave them a top coat of industrial polyurethane paint. I had to improvise a painting rack from an engine crane, folding ladder and a piece of wood
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It's getting a little crowded inside now
20240806_200720.jpgLast edited by Antsa; 7 August 2024, 20:13.Leave a comment:
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According to the wiring schematics the wire cross section for the radiator fan is 6mm2
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