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Dmitri, do you think that is it a worth upgrade for 1/4 mille sesions??
Of course, because you have 0.5-0.7 bar boost when you start like this.
I have a 3 bar map sensor, so the computer is ~1.2x wrong. But the computer is very inaccurate. The 0.5-0.7 I got from my datalogger.
I think it will be useful for drag sessions... I want to try with/without on a G-meter to try and get some measure of quantifiable benefit. Not too many times though - I like my clutch too much.
I think it will be useful for drag sessions... I want to try with/without on a G-meter to try and get some measure of quantifiable benefit. Not too many times though - I like my clutch too much.
Paul,use it only very few times,,only for fun or for run away from the police
Dmitri i will need this kind of stuff too...in both cars
RED Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI TME nº 16 of 250 BLACK Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI TME nº 189 of 250
LWB Audi Sport Quattro project
You need a switch under the clutch pedal. If TPS says that you are WOT, the switch is depressed and the vehicle is moving, the ECU cuts fuel.
That way you prevent choking the turbo and when you are done shifting you'll still have boost.
A bypass valve does this too to some extent, but this is much more effective.
Would this have the potential to cause some damage if something went wrong? Say if you are trying to flatchange close to redline and the clutch switch malfunctions I suppose you would just hit the normal rev limiter/fuel cutout unless there was some some other sort of failsafe mechanism built in.
Would this have the potential to cause some damage if something went wrong? Say if you are trying to flatchange close to redline and the clutch switch malfunctions I suppose you would just hit the normal rev limiter/fuel cutout unless there was some some other sort of failsafe mechanism built in.
Yes, you will just hit the normal rev limiter and nothing will happen.
One last question.
If you make the adjustments to the chip, then the launch control will always be on, right? I mean it does not use any kinda sensor on the clutch?
In principal I could just press that gas pedal in neutral or 1st gear (with clutch pressed down) and it would keep the revs at 4900 RPM?
One last question.
If you make the adjustments to the chip, then the launch control will always be on, right? I mean it does not use any kinda sensor on the clutch?
In principal I could just press that gas pedal in neutral or 1st gear (with clutch pressed down) and it would keep the revs at 4900 RPM?
It works from speed.
If your car is not moving, then you will have 4900 RPM or whatever it is set that.
If it is moving you will have normal rev limiter.
It does not know if you are in neutral or not...
And just for basic launch control where the range is written in the chip you don't need any switches or any extra wiring - it is purely a software upgrade.
It works from speed.
If your car is not moving, then you will have 4900 RPM or whatever it is set that.
If it is moving you will have normal rev limiter.
It does not know if you are in neutral or not...
And just for basic launch control where the range is written in the chip you don't need any switches or any extra wiring - it is purely a software upgrade.
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I suppose you would just hit the normal rev limiter/fuel cutout unless there was some some other sort of failsafe mechanism built in.
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