1. I am quite sure that with the Right Click, you can lock the doors of a running vehicle (with another key in the ignition)
2. T12b/10 is very important to the Right Click. I have tested the alarm by sitting in the car in the right rear passenger seat and using the new RightClick remote to lock the doors. Then I pulled up on the door lock pin. Opened the door and the alarm went off. Cleared the alarm by pressing the unlock button on the remote - twice.
3. I don't think you are right. Story: One day last week, I had locked the car with the remote (therefore the alarm was armed). I then decided to open the drivers door with the key, assuming that this would clear the alarm. Wrong-O dog breath. Alarm was still armed and when I opened the door, the alarm went off. Cleared with two pushes of the unlock button. Not what I wanted. Means you have to have the remote with you to open the car if you locked it with the remote. Also means that if you lock the car with the key, it is not armed, just locked. Different than the factory system for sure.
4. To confirm the above, I started the car and rolled down a rear passenger window (electric). Then I stopped the engine and got out. Then I locked the car with the key in the driver's door (Briefly, not held in the lock position). I checked for the alarm armed LED flashing. Nothing. Then I pulled up the rear passenger door lock pin and opened the door. Nothing. Then I locked the car with the RightClick remote. Armed LED was flashing. Pulled the rear passenger door lock pin up and opened the door. Alarm went off. Cleared by two pushes on the unlock button on the remote.
Conclusion: The communication between the central locking module is mostly one way. The alarm tells the central locking module to unlock or lock the doors but using the key in the door lock to unlock or lock the car does not disarm or arm the alarm. The alarm is ONLY armed/disarmed by the remote.
5. At the end of all that I locked the car with the remote, leaving the rear passenger door window still down. Then I used the key in the driver's door to roll up the window by holding the key in the locked position (took about 10 seconds).
6. T12b/2 has got nothing to do with locking or unlocking or windows, as far as I can tell.
7. and 8. Maybe another day. That is all for today.
(In the meantime, I finally got my interior mount 96 A6/UrS6 avant third brake light fully populated with bulbs and installed (used a relay to trigger the third brake light - otherwise I get a brake light out warning due to the lower resistance provided by a bunch (10) more pathways for current).
2. T12b/10 is very important to the Right Click. I have tested the alarm by sitting in the car in the right rear passenger seat and using the new RightClick remote to lock the doors. Then I pulled up on the door lock pin. Opened the door and the alarm went off. Cleared the alarm by pressing the unlock button on the remote - twice.
3. I don't think you are right. Story: One day last week, I had locked the car with the remote (therefore the alarm was armed). I then decided to open the drivers door with the key, assuming that this would clear the alarm. Wrong-O dog breath. Alarm was still armed and when I opened the door, the alarm went off. Cleared with two pushes of the unlock button. Not what I wanted. Means you have to have the remote with you to open the car if you locked it with the remote. Also means that if you lock the car with the key, it is not armed, just locked. Different than the factory system for sure.
4. To confirm the above, I started the car and rolled down a rear passenger window (electric). Then I stopped the engine and got out. Then I locked the car with the key in the driver's door (Briefly, not held in the lock position). I checked for the alarm armed LED flashing. Nothing. Then I pulled up the rear passenger door lock pin and opened the door. Nothing. Then I locked the car with the RightClick remote. Armed LED was flashing. Pulled the rear passenger door lock pin up and opened the door. Alarm went off. Cleared by two pushes on the unlock button on the remote.
Conclusion: The communication between the central locking module is mostly one way. The alarm tells the central locking module to unlock or lock the doors but using the key in the door lock to unlock or lock the car does not disarm or arm the alarm. The alarm is ONLY armed/disarmed by the remote.
5. At the end of all that I locked the car with the remote, leaving the rear passenger door window still down. Then I used the key in the driver's door to roll up the window by holding the key in the locked position (took about 10 seconds).
6. T12b/2 has got nothing to do with locking or unlocking or windows, as far as I can tell.
7. and 8. Maybe another day. That is all for today.
(In the meantime, I finally got my interior mount 96 A6/UrS6 avant third brake light fully populated with bulbs and installed (used a relay to trigger the third brake light - otherwise I get a brake light out warning due to the lower resistance provided by a bunch (10) more pathways for current).
As you say it starts almost immediately let’s look at the original control unit.





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