Cylinder Head Removal

[madmk4]

Goood god man, using a linisher to skim heads !! :eek2:


Tell me who does that so i i know not ever to go to them...


As for the picture of doug RS2's head...

It's certainly creative, and not done by a professional.. Or i'd hope not at least, sorry.

The guide shape should be taperd ideally, cut back a tiny bit if you like.

The finish isn't ideal, should be alot smoother than that.

I might just be me, but it looks like the ports go up and down in places form poor grinder controll, thats possibly the worst thing, when you do a head, you need to make sure that the X section of it isas even as possible.

The port divider starts off reasonably... then goes totally out of the top floor window ! At least it wasn't knife edged !!

It'd be interesting to see how the valves seat, and the throat and sort side radius of the head to, any more pictures ?

As for the bloke who said about 'It doesnt matter abut un doing head bolts in any order, as long as it's cold' I hate to say mate, i do belive thats a load of old cobble, and extremely dangerous to people who read that and arn't perticually in the know. One day, they might have to take a cam or a head out/off, un do em in no perticular order, and it cracks or snaps in half.. They're not going to be best pleased !

To be totally honest with you.. Id get a standard head and put it on, with some minor tweaking, from a very slow going grinder of some description (cant say what, im not sure what the heads made of)

[Doug_RS2]

Out of interest - What's wrong with knife edged on the inlets?

[madmk4]

Is hoping youd be on

Please don't take any offence to what i wrote, i can be quite hard to portray information over the net without sounding like a complete prick

Air doesnt flow flow efficiently on the back side of it in simple terms.

The best shape to be pushed through the air is a teardop shape.

As air flows around a shape, it is pressurised...

Sooooo, as to regain its original pressure, without any turbulance, it needs to taper at a uniform rate (see what i was saying about the dodgey port wall finish now, dips and bumps ?)
Best way of doing it is to round the leading, taper the trailing edge..


That'd be for a single port that feed two valves BTW.

[Doug_RS2]

no offence taken - didn't read it like that anyway.

So the leading edge will be rounded with the wall getting thinner behind? Is the what you mean?

So what should be done on the exhaust ports- polished and knife edged? I have read somewher that polishing doesn't have an affect as it will get a layer of carbon on it anyway - and the carbon acts as a heat shield - keep on giving us all this info - it is handy to know.

[madmk4]

That would be one wya of doing it i suppose yea.

As for the exhaust side, go wild, polish away lol


I've never seen the exhaust side on these heads, so can't comment specifiically, so, bear in mind this is a wide generalising sweeping statement, something I hate doing.

No knife edges, same as before really.

Three angle valve seats are good to, help promote pockets of swirling air.

When air travels around a large sweeping corner, tends to have one big current (try to imagine in you're head) However, if it has to go through three changes lets say, this will, if done correctly, cause a few little, broken up swirling pockets of air.

This is good because, large single pockets of swirling air can have the fuel drop out of suspention :O Not good, because it trys to cling onto the wall of the port then, becoming wasted fuel

Whereas, several smaller currents can often help it stay in suspention, and thus more enter the cylinder. And assuming the ratio of fuel added to air was correct in the first place, giving a nicer burn in mr cylinder

Happy to help, thanks for saying thanks, most people don't bother...

[Greg_S]

interesting read, have you got any pics you can show us to illustrate this better?

ta

Greg

[madmk4]

Nope, fraid not, sorry.

[Davidsinclair05]

Anyone help with a way to remove the inlet manifold from the head? I have only managed to loosen 2 allen head bolts so far and 1 has started to round.

[Greg_S]

David,

Try to see if you can tap the allen key further into the bolt before you start to undo it and make sure you get as much crap out of the top of the bolt as possible.

HTH

[s2_bo]

Anyone help with a way to remove the inlet manifold from the head? I have only managed to loosen 2 allen head bolts so far and 1 has started to round.

David this happened to me too, i had to knock a socket over each of the heads and then used a ratchet to undo them.

Cant remember what size it was but i think it was a metric size

[Davidsinclair05]

I thought that brute force and anger would loosen them after my wife told me that she was so sick of tripping over spare bits that she binned them, she didn't think that i was keeping them and i have lost foglamps and some of the engine bay plastic trim with some of the turbo pipes

[Jamo]

Mine came straight out, AndyP had some long allen keys with a ball ending which helped no end.

[AndyP]

I used these to get Jamo's off:-

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-hey-set/path/

It did help that they were only finger tight though!

[audiman]

These can be absolute PITA. My top tip is to go out and buy a decent allen key, snap on or mac etc. As greg said, clean the hex part out and make sure its all the way in before trying to undo. The other good idea is to buy the genuine special tool. Its a 1.5 foot long allen key basically. Ball end allen keys will round them out, so avoid if you can.

If all else fails then get a sharp chisel and try tapping the head round to loosen. Or as someone mentioned above, tap on a socket over the top. I dont do this as it damages the socket and snap on man wont take them back.

Cheap tools can make jobs like this a nightmare, sometimes its worth spending that little bit more.

[Davidsinclair05]

I soaked them in release oil last night but i won't get back to it till Saturday, i will have to get my skates on.