Cylinder Head Removal

[desmo888]

Originally posted by martinjs
heres a tip for removing the cam sprocket doug if you get stuck....

http://www.irry.com/neo/bilder/topp/topp_18.jpg

I find a brass drift through the cam lightening holes works well or wedge a brass drift under a cam lobe into the head.
An impact gum works wonders here too. May not even have to hold the cam in place.
Be sure not to set the head down with the valves down while the cams are in!!!
I have my head off right now so I am followingthis thread carefully!

[desmo888]

Which head gasket are you going to use?
year/model please, I need to order one here in the states.

Thanks!

[Mihnea]

Any news Doug? that combustion chamber really looks like something has gone through it at some point, but as you said it, it really looks like it has happened a while ago. Another surprise: the combustion chambers are damn clean, I bet most of the fuel we've sprayed through them was completely burnt, thus no deposits

BTW, how does the turbine look like after the treatment? Nothing went through it I hope!

Cheers,


Mihnea, back to cooking again

[Doug_RS2]

Originally posted by desmo888
Which head gasket are you going to use?
year/model please, I need to order one here in the states.

034 103 383AD

That is the part no - which should be the metal laminated one. Best to ask for an RS2 head gasket. Some S2s had the paper one and if it is "off the shelf" in the states it could be a paper one.

[Doug_RS2]

Originally posted by Mihnea
Any news Doug? that combustion chamber really looks like something has gone through it at some point, but as you said it, it really looks like it has happened a while ago. Another surprise: the combustion chambers are damn clean, I bet most of the fuel we've sprayed through them was completely burnt, thus no deposits

No news yet - the head is off and stripped down - well the valves are still in it. I will be taking it along to a head specialst to see what the say and if they convince me they know what they are talking about I will get them to do the work on it.

Is it common for heads that are damaged like that, to get welded and ground down to fill in the parts that are damaged?

BTW, how does the turbine look like after the treatment? Nothing went through it I hope!
[/B]

I think it was OK - I'll have a closer look tomorrow.

[desmo888]

I got my head completely stripped and I am wire brushing the valves and springs.
The head is soaking and I will start on cleaning that today. I will also be cleaning up the passages a bit with sanding drums on my die grinder.
Good stuff!
A friend with a local Audi repair shop offered me the pistons at his cost of $1300 USD for the set. I might go that direction instead of the J&E pistons, not sure yet. I'll post some pictures later.

[marty]

Is it common for heads that are damaged like that, to get welded and ground down to fill in the parts that are damaged?

we did a lot of welding and skimming back and crack repairing but looking at your photos i wouldent have thought it would require welding just dresing up. If your head place is just a reconditioners not a tuning shop they probably wont have flowing equipment and wont be interested in doing it at all they are happier repacing guides seats and skiming which is enough for most. It wont make that much differance but it would be nice to have it right while you have the opertunity.
see what sort of machine they use to skim we used a belt linisher for alloy and surface grinder for cast some only use surface grinders for both.
Its much easier to remmove as little as possible with a linisher. Its always best to have alloy heads skimmed when removed as the new gasket will seal better.
Hope this helps not confuses

[desmo888]

What the heck is a linisher?
I want as little as possible taken off my head so I'd like to see what it is.
It may have a different name in the U.S.

TIA,

[newsh]

A linisher is an endless belt of sandpaper on a flat table, like a small conveyor belt. Very easy to get things not flat at all as flatness depends on pressure and the state of the abrasive belt.

[marty]

A linisher is a big flat bed belt sander. You set the head face down on a moving sanding belt and it removes metal. benifit is you do not need to set the head up in a jig under a grinding wheel.
mutch quiker and easier.

[marty]

A linisher is an endless belt of sandpaper on a flat table, like a small conveyor belt. Very easy to get things not flat at all as flatness depends on pressure and the state of the abrasive belt.

depends on the operator of both macines

[newsh]

Originally posted by marty
depends on the operator of both machines

True enough! I'd go for a milling machine myself.

[desmo888]

Thanks for the tips gentlemen. I don't think the linishers are used much (at all?) here in the U.S.

[Doug_RS2]

My head is getting worked on in the next 2 weeks.

They could not put a timesert in due to not enough room or known space down the spark plug thread. So a helicoil will be put in that one chamber. They also said they have seen damaged chambers knocking out spark plugs before - Since that chamber is already damaged, it was probably that, that weakend the thread.

They were not keen on reworking the damaged chamber, although they will check the valves are stting properly

They are reprofiling the inlets, but thought the roughness was OK.

They also said that they would usually reprofile the valve guides to an aerodynamic shape when they are in the head, as long as they aren't shortened or weakened doing this.

It will be a couple of weeks before I get it back though.

[audiman]

Milled finish is much better, due to the accurate way in which it is done. Yes it is down to operaters skill, but a mill is a far better option.

I have known many a head to be welded up and reworked to a high standard. This normally needs doing if a car has been run with little coolant or infrequent coolant changes, as it loses its anti-corrosion properties. Also if something like a valve head had come off and got smacked around in there, but there would be scaring on the piston crown.

HTH Dougal