Engine not starting after cam job

[s2_bo]

Just topped up oil, Still not starting - plus Oil warning light is still coming on and beeping during fiering.

Will check for spark tomorrow or wednesday after work..

Such a weird coincidence that this has happened just after we changed the cam belt ..
Thanks for all your input.

Cheers.
Bo

[newsh]

Bo. Double check your distributor timing position very carefully. Also check that all the hoses are done up ok and no leaks in the system before or after turbo.

I think maybe the oil pressure warning is happening because the engine is turning over but not firing up so not enough rpms to get good pressure?

[s2_bo]

Bo. Double check your distributor timing position very carefully. Also check that all the hoses are done up ok and no leaks in the system before or after turbo.

I think maybe the oil pressure warning is happening because the engine is turning over but not firing up so not enough rpms to get good pressure?

Ok that could make sence.
Persionally i think its to much of an coinsidence that the hall sender would brake at the egsact time that i chainge the camblet.

This could be why it was only boosting to .6 bar ..

Ill strip her down again when i can and will double check everything,
The Mark H mod is properly also a good idea especially as the intercooler to crossmember connection is taking a lot of strain.
See image
Blue circle marks where left side IC to crossmember bracket has come off

Red circle marks right side where IC connects to Cross member (This point is taking a lot of strain)

IMG_6448r.JPG

Cheers
Bo

[HPmuirt]

Just topped up oil, Still not starting - plus Oil warning light is still coming on and beeping during fiering.

Will check for spark tomorrow or wednesday after work..

Such a weird coincidence that this has happened just after we changed the cam belt ..
Thanks for all your input.

Cheers.
Bo

Still sounds to me like the timing is out by a tooth or 2 from the cam belt change. Are you sure that you locked it all down when you did the change?

On a related subject, my mate owns 2 garages and was trained at the local VAG. The 'old boys' taught him a trick for fast and accurate cam belt changing (although he has never dared to do it himself).....

1. take the cam belt cover off.
2. run the engine.
3. Place a sharp knife against the belt and apply pressure until the belt is cut into 2 longitudinal pieces.
4. stop the engine.
5. cut one half of the old belt and remove.
6. slide the new belt on half way.
7. cut the remaining half of the old belt off.
8. slide the new belt on fully.

And hey presto Is that a scary but strangley genius technique or what?

Cheers n

Si

[DJones]

Dont think it is one i will be trying....... should work though

[s2_bo]

I heard of that technique before. It could be useful in a cam belt race . Would take a lot of guts to pull something like that off though.

[HPmuirt]

I heard of that technique before. It could be useful in a cam belt race . Would take a lot of guts to pull something like that off though.

Indeed....imagine what would happen if you slipped and cut the belt in half laterally ...t'would make a major mess of your engine

Anyway...I still think it sounds like the timing is out.

Cheers n

Si

[s2_bo]

Indeed....imagine what would happen if you slipped and cut the belt in half laterally ...t'would make a major mess of your engine

Anyway...I still think it sounds like the timing is out.

Cheers n

Si

That belt spins quite fast.. it would not only make a mess of your engine. but also of your face and rest of body... a slip with the blade could be fatal. Especially if your head is nice and close to it while your cutting the spinning belt.

cheers for your info Si,
I will check the belt over tomorrow after work.
Its better news than having to replace the hall sensor .
Just hope i haven't blown any valves

[BRY]

The belt and pully are properly lined up.

How did you line them up?

[s2_bo]

Positioned it so that the crank wheel lined up with markings at the top.
This was still marked with tipex form the change a couple of weekends before.
And the V on the crank pulley lined up with the mark at the bottom

Also looked the whole thing in to place with crank looking tool.

However after changing the belt and retensioning it with the water pump it might have pulled the pulley round slightly .

We did then turn it round once to check if it still lined up and it seemed fine. I am now beginning to doubt my memory though... .

[BRY]

Worth checking again,
I still think the dizzy drive gear is worth a check if everything is fine.

[S2central.net]

Still sounds to me like the timing is out by a tooth or 2 from the cam belt change. Are you sure that you locked it all down when you did the change?

On a related subject, my mate owns 2 garages and was trained at the local VAG. The 'old boys' taught him a trick for fast and accurate cam belt changing (although he has never dared to do it himself).....

1. take the cam belt cover off.
2. run the engine.
3. Place a sharp knife against the belt and apply pressure until the belt is cut into 2 longitudinal pieces.
4. stop the engine.
5. cut one half of the old belt and remove.
6. slide the new belt on half way.
7. cut the remaining half of the old belt off.
8. slide the new belt on fully.

And hey presto Is that a scary but strangley genius technique or what?

Cheers n

Si

Woah betty - I'd try it on a NON interference engine maybe for a laugh but not the S2. Sounds like the sort of mad thing you'd be taught as an Army mechanic - think of the time you'd save without fruiting around with alignment and locking tools...

Care would be needed though to get the new belt on as you'd have to release tension on the old belt enough to let the new one slide on without jumping a tooth on the remains on the old belt.

Genius idea like !


Paul

[GlynRS2]

The sort of thing to practice on an old army Land Rover that still belongs to the MOD.
Cam belt change no probs - 15min job mate

[4WheelDrifter]

Cam timing was checked and double checked, as usual. If it was out I don't think it explains the intermittent starting problem. It sounds like an ignition problem to me. Bo's car does have a classic 20v distributor rattle.
I think the IC O-ring is the likely culprit for the boost problem. You all know what that can be like, even if it is in good condition.

[s2_bo]

Ok, I have now got the IC mod and am picking up a S3 diverter valve tomorrow.

If it turns out that everything is aligned properly then i will have to check the dissy. Maybe the gear is gone...

This is quite a PITA to get to isn't it?
Realistically the gear should be ok though as it did start a few times after a while witch means it could be the hall sensor.
Any one changed one of these before with out taking out the IM and dissy its self?
or is that just wishful thinking
Thanks guys.

Bo