Engine not starting after cam job

[s2_bo]

Hello

I have a problem.
On the weekend with the help of Stu and Steph I changed my camblet and did a 996 brake conversion.

When I put the front of the car back together on Sunday morning I tried to start it while it was still on blocks and the engine fired but didn’t turn over.
I tried 3 or 4 times but it didn’t start.

I put the wheels back on, lowered car to ground and tried it again.
It turned over straight away and started fine..

Did some brake tests etc.. and everything was fine, (Apart form stalling at hard braking once.)

When I drove home it only boosted to .6 bar
I then stopped to get some optimax and again after filling up it wouldn’t start.
Waited a few minutes tried again, still nothing.
Took about 5 minutes of one and off until it finally started.

When I got home I parked up, turned off engine and tried to turn it back on… nothing same as before.

Tried 30 minutes later and started first time, turned off and back on a few times and absolutely no problems.

When out this morning tried to start it but it wouldn’t turn over. Exactly the same as before, also oil lamp kept coming on and beeping. Checked the oil again and it was a bit low, (I am parked on a slight hill though.)
Checked under car, no oil leeks etc..

Tried it again this lunchtime and it still wouldn’t start.

I have just bought some more oil and will refill after work.

Could low oil stop the engine form starting?

I also noticed that the intercooler to cross member connection was a bit crap as I have not purchased the Mark H mood yet. The left bracket that connects the IC to cossmember is broken so a lot of strain on the right hand side connection.

Would a vacuum leak stop the engine form turning over?

Any one have any ideas?

I have done a search but have not found an answer for this irregular fault.


Thanks for your help.
Bo

P.s. The belt and pully are properly lined up.

[Jamo]

Bo sounds like your cam timing is out.

Sounds like a problem AAH had and it was his timing.

Are you 100% sure everything is lined up correctly?

Other candidates are the hall sensor which would be a pig as you need to take the cambelt off to get too it.

[s2_bo]

Thanks Jamo
Im 99% sure its all lined up properly. I checked and then double checked. Turned the crank round and it lined up again fine.

If the hall sensor is gone or faulty woudl the engine still turn over and start occasionally?

[BRY]

Worn Dizzy drive
Search the forum for this and then get on the Ebay to buy a metal drive gear, if you think it is the problem

[Jamo]

Thanks Jamo
Im 99% sure its all lined up properly. I checked and then double checked. Turned the crank round and it lined up again fine.

If the hall sensor is gone or faulty woudl the engine still turn over and start occasionally?

Yeh mate, apparently theres an old trick of pooring water on the hall sensor to get a car to start.

I didn't believe but it crops up in searches if you look on the forum, (hall sensor water)

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5575&highlight=hall+sensor+water

[s2_bo]

Thanks, will have a look now.

[BRY]

Bo, Is your car a 3B?

[Jamo]

Bo, Is your car a 3B?

Yeh it is, let me guess the above dont apply to the 3B?

[BRY]

[WabTheKing]

duno but hall sender is in the dizzy, and they dont like water

[WabTheKing]

have you checked the usual fuel,spark, etc?

[BRY]

Can you hear me yet?

[WabTheKing]

brick was out of signal

[s2_bo]

Havent checked the Spark or Fuel yet.

But the weird thing is that its intermittent, and starts every so often.
There fore i dont think its the fuel pump.

Ill try to LED some codes after work.

Thanks.

Bo

[WabTheKing]

incorrect timming will not show up on fault codes IIRC