Yes, the n75 is connected correctly (as the link says)
0,4 boost, first run with the car
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You can do a final check on the N75. Remove it from the car, connect a short bit of hose to the leg of the T, connect an air line or just blow through it, the air should come out of the short arm of the T.
Now trigger the valve with a battery, 12v is fine or a 9v PP3 radio battery will also do it. With the valve energised the air should come out of the long arm of the T and NOT out of the short arm.
If the N75 is operating correctly, and we know it's ticking on the car so the wiring is ok, then the ECU is not demanding boost (it's in limp mode)
Possibilities
Pull codes again, see if you have an Adaptation fault. Could likely mean an air leak.
It's possible the hose to the map sensor in the ECU is kinked, damaged or disconnected.
There's a boost/vacuum leak you haven't found.
The distributor timing is slightly out, on the 3B this has to be perfect. Check the Zero mark on the flywheel against the marks in the dizzy. The front pulley mark is not accurate. Put the car in gear and roll it forward onto the msrks to take up backlash.Comment
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OK thanks. Will check N75 again tonight. Got the vagcom here aswell tonight so i can pull out codes.
About distributor timing i found this link if anybody else has issues and finds this thread: quattroworld.com Forums: UrS4/UrS6/S2/RS2
Will post what i find out later on, thanks again mate
Audi S2 Coupe
Audi A6 C7
VW T5Comment
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VCDS connected now. When i blow air in the leg i can only get air through the short arm. When N75 is activated i can blow air through the long arm BUT i can feel air coming in the short arm aswell. Both my N75 works the same when i tested.You can do a final check on the N75. Remove it from the car, connect a short bit of hose to the leg of the T, connect an air line or just blow through it, the air should come out of the short arm of the T.
Now trigger the valve with a battery, 12v is fine or a 9v PP3 radio battery will also do it. With the valve energised the air should come out of the long arm of the T and NOT out of the short arm.Audi S2 Coupe
Audi A6 C7
VW T5Comment
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Blowing in the leg and filming the short arm hoseAudi S2 Coupe
Audi A6 C7
VW T5Comment
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Hmm, I'm going to have to check my spare N75 now!Comment
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Yes, I have just tested 3 old ones here and they're all the same, in fact they leak a little in both directions.https://youtube.com/shorts/YMTDOWTw9IA?feature=share
Blowing in the leg and filming the short arm hose
So I guess that's normal, they're just not very good valves.Comment
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Just a quick check, get someone to sit in the car and push the accelerator pedal to the floor.
Check the throttle is actually going to WOT, ie no slack.Comment
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Error code.
G28 failure due to engine not running i assume.Audi S2 Coupe
Audi A6 C7
VW T5Comment
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Cant hear the f60 click either. Tried measuring between pin. 4 and 6 aswell (diagram attached) only have open circuit.
Audi S2 Coupe
Audi A6 C7
VW T5Comment
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Adjusted TPS and now it clicks - fault gone
Went for a short ride and pulled 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation. 10-00 - Adaption Level Not Reached.
Followed this guide: quattroworld.com Forums: G69 / F60 Throttle valve position potentiometer /idle switch information
got only 3006ohm on WOT between Pin 2 and 3. could this be the cause why i wont get my boost?Across Pins 2 and 3 on the switch:
Throttle closed = 750 to 1300 ohms
As throttle is opened from closed to WOT = increase to 3600 ohms
If NO, replace sensor.Last edited by Lopez90; 12 July 2023, 13:32.Audi S2 Coupe
Audi A6 C7
VW T5Comment
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