Intermittent power loss

[K Simmonds]

Just reread everything and looked at that picture again to refresh my memory, I'd definatly want to replace that arm.

And to answer your question regarding removal in the other thread again you could try drilling a hole in the center with a vacuum cleaner hooked up to catch the dust as you don't really want any metal particals getting into the dissy. Then try force threading a bolt into the hole in the arm to break the glue bond, however the material is very brittle so it may well just strip out though it's worth a try. It could also cause the arm to split which would also solve the problem.

And yes, fitting new HT leads to a 3B is very labourious! I can recall doing the ones on my S2, I took a good couple of hours over the job and it's a real fiddle to get them routed nicely.

[newsh]

predding
I've found another MAF here so you’re ok to hang onto that one if you would like.

[predding]

predding
I've found another MAF here so you’re ok to hang onto that one if you would like.

Have sent you a PM John - thanks

[predding]

Just reread everything and looked at that picture again to refresh my memory, I'd definatly want to replace that arm.

And to answer your question regarding removal in the other thread again you could try drilling a hole in the center with a vacuum cleaner hooked up to catch the dust as you don't really want any metal particals getting into the dissy. Then try force threading a bolt into the hole in the arm to break the glue bond, however the material is very brittle so it may well just strip out though it's worth a try. It could also cause the arm to split which would also solve the problem.

And yes, fitting new HT leads to a 3B is very labourious! I can recall doing the ones on my S2, I took a good couple of hours over the job and it's a real fiddle to get them routed nicely.

Thanks v much for the comments; my old Audi Master Tech mate said similar ie drill it to loosen the bond but yr comment to drill at the centre is a good detail. I tend to let things sit and percolate to find a min damage solution. I was trying to think of a U bracket over the arm and then using a puller with the legs under the rotor arm. And on the arm, yes everyone who has seen the picture has said the same, very rewarding to see it like that ie having come this far, have actually found something

I will try and find that diesel breather, if you have any supplier links/suggestions, please advise

VERY glad you said the HT leads is a labour of love, now I know its not just me and my OCD.Cheers

[predding]

Couldn't get a drill in so Plan B, careful application of the Mole grip and gentle tapping with a hammer on its side in parallel direction with the shaft. Rotor arm cracked and gave way in one piece, clean removal and clean shaft head ready to be cleaned and new rotor arm fitted. I also believe that is the 'tuna can' inside the dist body in the photo.

[predding]

Hello. Well nothing has changed, car still wont fire. 2x simple questions:

I the above picture, you can see the black marker with 38 / 01 printed on it - what is that?
I wouyld like to read the Morse codes from the basic OBD but inf the engine doesnt run, is that even possible?

Thanks for any comments as always...

[predding]

Hello. Well nothing has changed, car still wont fire. 2x simple questions:

I the above picture, you can see the black marker with 38 / 01 printed on it - what is that?
I would like to read the Morse codes from the basic OBD but if the engine doesnt run, is that even possible?

Thanks for any comments as always...

[Tractor Dave]

Where is the car? I cant believe this has been going on since 2007

Can you get the car to me? I'm sure i could sort for you given some time.

[newsh]

Where is the car? I cant believe this has been going on since 2007

Can you get the car to me? I'm sure i could sort for you given some time.

South of France

[Tractor Dave]

I could use a holiday

[newsh]

Hello. Well nothing has changed, car still wont fire. 2x simple questions:

I the above picture, you can see the black marker with 38 / 01 printed on it - what is that?
I would like to read the Morse codes from the basic OBD but if the engine doesnt run, is that even possible?

Thanks for any comments as always...

The little black thing, 38/01, is the visible part of the hall sensor. When the window in the thing you call the tuna can passes it delivers the camshaft position to the ECU.

You can read the blink codes without starting the engine. You will get an engine speed sensor warning (because the engine isn't turning).

[newsh]

I could use a holiday

Forum meet at Paul's

[predding]

Forum meet at Paul's

Well actually...I can do free B&B for 2 ppl excl travel expenses for TD and newsh - giving it one last shot with local garage owner who is familiar with this age of car - I am starting to hone in on the timing if its that critical or the alarm/immobiliser has had a relay fail and is blocking something. It needs to be removed but carefully so original wiring conns remain intact

[Tractor Dave]

Good luck

[predding]

You can read the blink codes without starting the engine. You will get an engine speed sensor warning (because the engine isn't turning).

Once again apologies for being dim but how do you read the blink codes ie do you crank the engine on the starter as IIRC it takes a while to clear the code and start a cycle. Thanks