I think it is fooked

[Doug_RS2]

yep #3 is the one that was knackered.

[audiman]

Its hard to explain. You have a special tool that connects to the garage airline with a gauge. You then screw an adapter into the plug hole and blast compressed air into the cylinder. The gauge indicates what %age of leakage there is on that one cylinder. In a perfect world you should get 0%, but in reallity about 10% is OK. This will test valve seats, both inlet and exhaust, and also piston rings/bore wear. If you have no access to this tool and an airline capable of over 100 psi then take it to a garage and get it done there.

Its no good chucking in 50 psi, as it wont blowby!

[Mark Halligan]

Doug,

sounds daft I know, but did the workshop rebuild the head and if they did, did they defo refit new valve stem seals?

Mark.

[Doug_RS2]

Mark - they definitely did fit them. And they gave me back all the old ones.

[S2central.net]

Doug,

That sucks man !

Definitely get the leakdown test done as Tom suggests. It will determine if there is a mechanical problem or a leaking gasket.

There's a lot of new variables in your equation of possible causes - what with repair work and new go faster parts all at once - nout wrong with that approach in an ideal world - but you need to narrow down the search to a given cylinder if you are to preserve your sanity.

Keep the faith matey - have another beer - and satisfy yourself that you will have the fastest S2 anywhere in the UK (North of Watford) when its all done and dusted.

These things can almost drive a grown man to tears. I once wasted a whole weekend on the Manx International Rally chasing the most frustrating problem with a Nova GTE that kept jumping teeth on a timing belt... It took another week to find the root cause... **** !

C'est la vie


Paul

[Doug_RS2]

Results from tonight

Compression test:

#1 = 10.0 Bar
#2 = 14.0 Bar
#3 = 10.0 Bar
#4 = 13.0 Bar
#5 = 14.5 Bar

Put a bit of oil in each cylinder (this should seal worn rings to show if low presures are rings or something else - gasket, or valves).

#1 = 14.0 Bar
#2 = 15.0 Bar
#3 = 11.5 Bar
#4 = 16.0 Bar
#5 = 14.5 Bar

Manual Specs are 9Bar to 13 Bar, Worn is 7Bar, Max limit between cylinders is 3 Bar.

Car goes brilliant, no noisey tappets, idles well.

It still produces mayonaise and mist/steam out of the catch tank, mist/steam out of the oil filler cap(when cap removed) and the dipstick tube(when dipstick removed).

I think a cylinder - probably #3 is blowing into a water and oil passage at the headgasket.

The only reason I can think it isn't sealing is becasue I might have got oil on the headgasket as I was putting the head back on. - I had ioled up the cams/tappets, etc whjile the head was off and tipping the head at an angle to put it on might have poured oil on/into the headgasket.

Would this cause the headgasket to fail ??

Thanks for the help guys.

[Mihnea]

Doug, that really sucks for you mate....


So, I think something's definitely not right with the 3rd cylinder (again ), but I can't think of oil on a head gasket making it fail, damn, the torque setting on those head bolts shouldn't make it do that....

Also, apart from that, rings aren't ok on the 1st cylinder, going from 10 to 14 bar is a lot....


What can I say more??? It's really a huge pain to discover that after all the work you've done, I am really stunned by the amount of work you've done by yourself without having done it ever before, so it's a realy pain and I feel for you man!

Anyway, if you want to keep it like that for a while and get it tuned right so it works, I'll be more than happy!

What sort of boost do you get? Only 20 psi?


Cheers,


Mihnea

[Doug_RS2]

If I wasn't getting that horrible mayonaise out of the catch tank I would live with it for a while.

If anyone thinks it is even worth changing the head gasket, changing to head studs and getting the head checked off the car, and making sure it is clean(no oil in/on headgasket) I would consider doing that - even before the next meet. I eralise #1 is definitley on its way out, but I reckon #3 must be leaking though the headgasket ????

It is 20 psi, dropping off but my foot is not on the floor. It's definitely faster than a 1.4 TDi Polo Seriously - it's not gone as well as this for a long time - 1st and 2nd it is at peak bosst just over 4000rpm.

[S2central.net]

Doug -

If I was you, I'd have another beer, then bite the bullet on replacing the piston rings. #1 is definitely shagged and #3 smells wrong too. Get the bores properly measured for tolerance. If in spec then get them 'cross-hatch-honed' to ensure a good seal with the new rings. Make sure and measure ring clearance as per the manual. This could be a good time to check all crank bearings also. It sucks cos all bolts have to be renewed and its time consuming as hell.

As for the head, I would get it crack tested and thoroughly checked over with a leakdown test to ensure the valves are seating nicely. I'm always paranoid about cleanliness when lifting heads on and off. Lint free cloths are a must for that sort of thing and you want mating surfaces to be as dry and spotless as you can get. Then clean it again !


Cheers,

Paul

[audiman]

Rings dont look good mate

Oil on the gasket could make it not seal. As it leaves a wet trace for oil or gases to escape from. But this is normally only true for paper gaskets.

Looks like head back off and some rings then Doug.

Why not buy some rods and do the monster engine now?

[Doug_RS2]

After running the car last night - I checked levels today. Oil is OK, the water is an inch lower than it was when cold yesterday - it's using water. And it has a film of oil on the top of it.

The headgasket is definitely leaking.

It's coming off again.

I can at least visibly check the bores - I'm not sure if I could stomach doing the monster build just now - If the headgasket is visibly been leaking I will replace it and put it back together and live with the bad rings till I can afford new pistons, conrods, clutch etc. I think I would prefer to live with bad rings and get another block to do the work on.

The headgasket would difinitely have had been contaminated with oil - as it dripped everywhere else.

I'll get the head leak tested and measured when it is off.

I'm getting the head studs as well - should have done this is the first place and saved £90

[Doug_RS2]

The head is off - doesn't take long now - I can do it blindfolded .

There are no signs of bad leaking - I need to find somewhere to test the head now.

[Doug_RS2]

When i have the sump off - is it an easy job to change the rings and conrods?

And can it be done without taking anything else off the car?

[jubjub]

Just before my engine went horibbly (SP)wrong it lost nearly all its water.The use of oil was down to my VSOS. The head as sent of to be pressure tested, turns out it had a tiny little crack between 2 and 3 was sent of somewhere else were the crack was filled and been absolutely spot on since .... now whers that wood

[Doug_RS2]

All VSOS have been replaced - I might as well get everything checked out though.