Quick 'how to' replace fuel lines

[S2central.net]

Mmmm - thats a worry... I'll play safe and get some kunifer at ye olde motor factor tomorrow then.

[Mikes2]

The problem with copper is that with vibration it can start to crack.

Kunifer is recommended as it doesn't suffer from this problem

[S2central.net]

In fairness - the choice of copper wasn't mandated by rules - it just had to run internally and be properly sealed at the bulkheads... If you had loads of cash then its Aeroquip of course, but if not then it was good old copper. Nice and cheap, good and flexible with fittings easily sourced.

Point taken on the top corner... But thats pretty much engine out job to get way up there... I'm planning on renewing the hardlines as far as I can before the rise up at rear engine to collect the flexy sections.

[mcandmar]

I think less. Interesting they use copper in competition cars, never thought of the shunt aspect.

The section that worries me is the final 90 degree bend from the strut brace down to the flexible fuel lines. There is no support after the bend so it has to take the weight of the metal flexible fuel lines and the forces of the engine moving around and vibrating. Ideally there should be a support bar running down from the strut brace with a rubber mount just above the connection.

[S2central.net]

Sorry - read Marks message again just there - are you saying that copper nickel is more or less flexible than copper ?

[S2central.net]

I know from prepping a few rally car shells in the past that copper was the norm as it had to be routed thru the cabin under GpN regs... more flexibility isn't a bad thing there if there is a shunt. It should only fatigue if installed such that it is moving around too much

[mcandmar]

No idea, only thing that concerns me is metal fatigue. The original lines are very rigid and a pain to bend into shape, the copper stuff you can almost do by hand. AFAIK the copper/nickel stuff is better in that respect.

[S2central.net]

I wasn't worried about appearance of copper vs copper-nickel - just weather resilience... Any big difference ?

[mcandmar]

Does Audi even list a part number for the fuel line? I assumed they were made on the car, would be a very large box if they do sell them.

@Steve i would leave the engine bay alone and just replace the section you need to, if you can get it use copper/nickel line instead of plain copper as they look more OEM. Ideally if you can find a donor car with a good line cut out the section you need.

Time wise its not a big job, the run under the car is pretty straight forward, if you need to reproduce the engine bay section your going to be there for a while with a pipe bender trying to massage it into shape. It took me a hour to make the short sections along the strut brace, partly because i had never done it before.

I also used the wade connections which are a doddle to fit however you have to torque them up a lot more than you would think, just keep an eye on them after pressurising the system again as i had to tighten mine twice.

I also bought a fire extinguisher for peace of mind

[Error404]

Hmm, i'd say a couple hours with the right tools to do a neat job on the fuel lines

[S2central.net]

How much time reuiqred here - roughly ?

I'm gonna do fuel filter and 044 pump upgrade at same time though - may as well - been sealed up in a box ready to fit for ages now

[Error404]

you probably won't need to replace the rubbers, mine were covered in rusty skank and looked awful, but cleaned mine up good as new and not perished or cracked or anything. Clamps are Stainless, so are fine to clean up and reuse as long as you are careful removing them

Steve the factory lines are a single piece and run up behind the rack so unless you fancy an engine out job to replace them, you're better off making up your own

[Fat Audi 80]

Hi Paul,

I am in the process of getting quotes and lead times for the Fuel lines and clamps (if they are not NLA ) so I will let you know when I have some news...

I am sort of hoping to do this as OEM as possible... We shall see.

Cheers,

Steve

[S2central.net]

I see the 8mm joiners used here for hardlines at engine onto the new stuff - that'll do for me.

Is it worth renewing all the clips and rubbers under there I wonder while I'm at it ?

[S2central.net]

So - I was greeted this week not by pools of water inside the car, but lil patches of fuel under the car... Just brilliant.

I have some 8mm copper tubing here - enough for whole car - assume that is OK versus copper-nickel stuff... I'll give it a good coat of something just in case. I have ordinary 8mm hose joiners as well... Figure I may as well replace it all between the tank up to the braided pipes from the fuel rail.

Suppose I need some 8mm internal ID flexible fuel hose to adapt hardlines onto existing fittings.