Quick 'how to' replace fuel lines
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This is a sticky topic.
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Picked up my car on Tuesday from Rob (GT500) who kindly replaced all my fuel lines, filter and fuel pump. To say he has done a neat job is a big understatement. So, a big thanks Rob
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/\ /\ /\ /\ And a big thank you to the OP for starting this thread. It made a daunting job look a lot lot easier.
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As the person who started the 'Wade' requirement
I think I should just say, I'm sure it wont matter if you use an alternative, but all I know is that they were the ones recomended by a trusted supplier of mine and I can vouch for their quality.
Last thing you want is to put a duff connector on that not only leaks but knackers your nice, new & straight piping because you have to fit another bit!Leave a comment:
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If hydraulic fittings are not made to good tolerances (which cheapo / no-name tend to be) then they don't seal properly, simple as.
If a jobs worth doing......Leave a comment:
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At 1.90 each I figure they are not THAT expensive. I have just spent about £80 on rust preventer and paint!
Also they look like they will be easy to fit and then forget.
I will let you know how I get on with these next week...
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Do we really need to worry about using these WADE connectors - are they so much better than generic / noname fittings ?
There is a liquid PTFE sealant available from FROSTS that is designed to make such connections more robust. Often used on air line fittings on trucks I believe.
As to fuel line bursting - tis a worry but I remember a thing on TG years ago where I think it was Tiff who did a test to camera by spraying various liquids onto a hot exhaust manifold. Petrol didn't ignite - but brake fluid went up in a great burst of flame.Leave a comment:
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Attached are the Wade instructions...Leave a comment:
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My worst fear is one of them suddenly splitting and pissing petrol at pressure on to the neighbouring hot stainless steel exhaust. I think the car would be a fire about in about 2 minutes!
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