Quick 'how to' replace fuel lines

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  • john881000
    replied
    Fuel Lines

    HI
    GREAT WRITE UP.........WITH PICS

    where pipes and joints locally sorced???......where you get them??

    cheers

    john

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  • PeteRR
    replied
    Great write up Alex. Nice one.

    Did you get the pipe and Wade connectors locally?

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  • urquattro-island
    replied


    good write up

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  • S-Express
    replied
    Oh yeah, one last thing - when its all back together, get some more grease (Mobil HP222) and smother it everywhere (except in your pants) just for good measure.
    Hope this helps any of you that are planning this job soon.

    Cheers

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  • S-Express
    replied
    And thats it, job done.
    2 hours max - well unless you fanny about like me and sit on the cr*pper for half an hour readin Practical Performace Car half way through the job.

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:40.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    The blue stuff is grease, i used it EVERYWHERE! lashings of it inside the rubber mountings will stop water getting in and rotting these pipes away in another 13 years (Thats optimism that the car's got a while left to live )

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  • S-Express
    replied
    This is the tank end and shows the 2 existing rubber pipes joined up and also the new bit of rubber pipe that I had to use to replace the thingemy jig...

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:39.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    next the new pipe was straightened out and cut to length.
    Connected to the joiners one at a time (don't forget the olives )

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:38.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    After having chopped the plastic fuel pipe where the thingemy jig was attached, I had to find a pipe stiffener so that when I put some new rubber hose over this plastic pipe, it wouldn't collapse. It seems 3/16" brake pipe is a perfect fit as you can see

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:38.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    flaring the ends of the new pipes where they will be going into the existing rubber pipes...

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:37.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    8mm joiners now in position, bit of a squeeze but not too bad. Tighten them up fairly tight but not over tight, they are only brass after all.
    Oh, also, when you have cut your pipes off, there will be a little fuel leakage, but it will stop after a minute or so. You wont have to bung any holes up.

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:37.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    The stubborn thingemy jig that is now residing in the bin

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:36.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    This is looking at the front end after the pipes had been cut off at a suitable point where they were straight enough to get a joiner on too and had no more corrosion.
    (This point was up and under the heat shield as the pipes start to go vertical and enter the engine bay).

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:29.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    nasty horrible oxidisation - DAMN YOU - WHY WON'T YOU STOP YOUR DESTRUCTIVE WAYS!!!!!

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:28.

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  • S-Express
    replied
    This was the tank end. The right angle union is the breather pipe and it has a barb on one end that fits into an 8mm plastic pipe, the other end has a ferrule on it that connects the copper pipe. I soaked this joint for a week (spraying it every couple of days or so) knowing very well that it was seized solid and would never come off.............I was right!
    Had to cut the plastic pipe off just above the barb and the whole right angle thingemy jig was discarded along with the rest of the corroded pipe work and some of my skin

    Attached Files
    Last edited by Jamo; 23 December 2011, 10:27.

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