ABY Timing Belt Renewal

[S2central.net]

Well seeing as all my front suspension is off the car waiting parts for arrival in the new year, I thought I'd get stuck into Plan A which was to renew the timing belt, coolant pump and all the auxiliary belts. I did the thermostat and link hoses a couple of years ago so they are grand.

In about 90 minutes I managed to get about this far -

1 - Undertray off (and worryingly found what appears to be a leak at the oil cooler pending more investigation)

2 - Front bumper off (all lights out first) and front panel removed

3 - Coolant drained & auxrad removed

4 - Intercooler and X-member removed

I've left the next items for removal soaking in some WD40 - planning on removing the aircon compressor without opening the system and the brackets for the pipes look mighty crusty.

Definitely got some oil leakage down there which has peed me off - this car is going to empty my wallet rather more badly than I had hoped, but it is the 1st amount of serious work that I've had to do in over 6 yrs of ownership so I can't complain that much.

Photos to follow - trying to keep notes here to help others and remind me when I come to creating a more detailed 'how to' someday.

Paul

[s2driveruk]

good luck Paul, get some new p clips cos those are going to round off you can bet on it!!! Is the a/c sound, i.e. no leaks? If it needs a regas then might be worth renewing the o rings on those pipes while you can get to them. Halfords do a great kit for £10 with all metric sized o-rings!

I haven't dared to total my project cost up from the summer.....it smells well north of £2k though....gulp

David

[S2central.net]

Nope - it leaks more than a government press office For that reason I might just remove the hoses at the compressor in order to remove it without upsetting those lil P-clips as you say. I want to have all the engine work done (if possible) before the next box of parts comes from VAGparts to finish the running gear.

The last thing I needed was a leaky oil cooler - typical !


Paul

[Error404]

I found removing the lower timing belt cover and the rear belt cover the biggest ballache. But then again I never had a camshaft locking tool
Also, i couldn't work out how to get the idler pulley off, and was worried about forcing it - TBH it looked fine on mine (7A) and had no play so I just left it on there.

[spink]

Nope - it leaks more than a government press office For that reason I might just remove the hoses at the compressor in order to remove it without upsetting those lil P-clips as you say. I want to have all the engine work done (if possible) before the next box of parts comes from VAGparts to finish the running gear.

The last thing I needed was a leaky oil cooler - typical !


Paul

Probably worth upgrading that oil cooler to a mocal or similar then as the aby one is £180

[S2central.net]

I've never had a problem with oil temps so I think the factory item is up to the job - but as you say - might be able to get higher spec for less money... Assuming something off the shelf fits in that corner without complexity and hassle of getting funky connectors made etc etc


PAul

[s2driveruk]

think the cooler is cheaper than the hoses and connectors IIRC, though someone like Pirtek might be able to help reduce the costs of those a bit?

[S2central.net]

Here's one pic of how far its got to this stage... No real dramas so far.

[Error404]

i'm confused now - as far as i knew the crank locking tool is different for the 7A / 3B and the ABY - but from your pic paul, it looks as if the same tool (2084) would work on both pulleys

[s20ale]

Be watching this one quite close as my belts are getting ready for doing.
Keep the piccies coming Paul as you know pictures speak a thasan waards!!.
S2ant posted a comprehensive list of part's & No's just for this job, would post a link but hey i'm from Norfik 'n' good.
I'll get there....One day.

[S2central.net]

Some good news and bad news to report from this evenings input... Pics to follow - on a different 'puter.

Good news - the modified 2084 crank lock tool that I borrowed works a treat and engages sweetly with the snub mount bracket. Absolutely no fussing about the aircon compressor getting in the way.

Removed the alternator, aircon and hydraulic belts without hassle.

Bad News - I have broken two 1/2" swing bars trying to get the main pulley bolt off. Man that thing is ridiculously tight - I'm honestly getting worried about the force being applied thru the lock tool into that alloy snub mount. Getting reinforcements in tomorrow by way of truck spec 3/4" socketry and durty big air gun to try and buzz it off. Doing a quick bit of mental arithmetic, I am a slightly portly 80kg and had my entire weight on that swing bar with another extension tube... I had almost 1m of leverage so thats about 800Nm I was applying. What a nightmare.

Its a bit naff the way the vibration damper is attached to the crank with that big bolt... The pulleys behind it just have the 4 x M6 bolts to hold them - if the damper just used those then there would be no need to remove that bottom bolt for timing belt renewal. I've seen other crank/pulleys that do it that way. I might consider a modification to the vibration damper for such a tweak - dunno yet.

Anybody got a nice BTDT trick to offer up here for removing the main pulley bolt ?

Paul

[spink]

If its any consolation i weigh about 105kg and had 1.5m pipe over a breaker bar and the fu*ker still aint moving on a block yesterday.May have a go heating the bolt up tomorrow.

[Knight Rider S4]

Can see why bars like this are used

[S2central.net]

Thats a relief - not just me then... I'll get some beers and pizzas down my gregory before the next attempt - get some more bulk.

I reckon this bolt has had way too much threadlock put on the last time the belt was done (just before I got the car in 2001). I suppose heat could be the trick. Shock treatment with a large hammer and drift on the head of the bolt was a waste of time.

Paul

[S2central.net]

Can see why bars like this are used

'k me - those are a bit beefy alright... But I easily had that length tonight. A lot of trust is placed on the snub mount with the lock tool. That 2-bar method looks good as you could avoid the lock tool and use the ground to stop the crank turning.

Paul