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Yeah i borrowed them from work, they are for the 5 cylinder T4 and for the LT
i just pulled 1 and pushed the other was tight tho
The thick one is the torque wench will go alot more than the required torque
If you ever use a big torque wench dont pull down from above you as then it clicks over will nearly knock you out lol some kid when i was at collage done it. this one is ok only moves abit
Its sorted now... Used a 3/4" socket set and a big swing bar and it just came off with no drama. There was none of the bending and springing you get with 1/2" tools - just amazing how much more rigid the big stuff is. Easy enough with the right tool. Relief.
Very quick update... Been quietly working away on these thru any spare time I found over the holidays.
New timing belt fitted along with new crank pulley & bolts, tensioner and new water pump & bolts. Also renewed all the auxiliary belts.
Getting the required 200Nm plus 180 degrees into that bottom pulley bolt requires some energy I have to say - and lots of trust in the locking tool and snub mount bracket...
Hand cranked the engine a few times, spun it up on the starter (CMP off), then fired her up with no coolant just to give me the sanity check that all is well before getting on with everything else.
Also renewed the cam cover gaskets, lambda probe, HT stubs and all the filters...
I have numerous photos, copious notes and will post a full description in due course.
Only issue I had was with the little M6 bolts that lock the belt tensioner down to the block. The most recent version of the ABY factory manual states 29Nm (twenty nine) torque for these bolts which I thought was wrong, but gently went for it anyway... Sheared one bolt clean off !!! But I was lucky where it sheared so I could tease it out again. I renewed them all (cut and filed some high tensile M6 bolts I had) and went for 20Nm which is called up in the AAN factory info. I used a lil thread lock on these for good measure as well as the big bottom bolt.
Very quick update... Been quietly working away on these thru any spare time I found over the holidays.
New timing belt fitted along with new crank pulley & bolts, tensioner and new water pump & bolts. Also renewed all the auxiliary belts.
Getting the required 200Nm plus 180 degrees into that bottom pulley bolt requires some energy I have to say - and lots of trust in the locking tool and snub mount bracket...
Hand cranked the engine a few times, spun it up on the starter (CMP off), then fired her up with no coolant just to give me the sanity check that all is well before getting on with everything else.
Also renewed the cam cover gaskets, lambda probe, HT stubs and all the filters...
I have numerous photos, copious notes and will post a full description in due course.
Only issue I had was with the little M6 bolts that lock the belt tensioner down to the block. The most recent version of the ABY factory manual states 29Nm (twenty nine) torque for these bolts which I thought was wrong, but gently went for it anyway... Sheared one bolt clean off !!! But I was lucky where it sheared so I could tease it out again. I renewed them all (cut and filed some high tensile M6 bolts I had) and went for 20Nm which is called up in the AAN factory info. I used a lil thread lock on these for good measure as well as the big bottom bolt.
Paul
Paul you need one of these... locks all the i5's..
Just guessing... You take the starter motor off, lock the flywheel, apply 800NM to undo the bolt and bend the crank. (Thats why its supposed to be locked from the front.)
Just guessing... You take the starter motor off, lock the flywheel, apply 800NM to undo the bolt and bend the crank. (Thats why its supposed to be locked from the front.)
Ahh I did not think of that
Cheers
rich
sigpic
"For what you spent on that you could have brought a new car"
BUT I DON'T WANT A NEW CAR!
1995 S2 Avant, Volcano Black
1982 VW Golf Mk1, primer yellow, will be finished one day, maybe.
2003 VW T4 long nose X pack, (has become project)
Its been borrowed on many occasion no bent cranks yet!! you wouldn't bend a cast crank with a spanner how ever large. It would shatter before it bent and none have yet...
If you lighten your front pulley... enough... or use an aluminium one you have no choice..
Its been borrowed on many occasion no bent cranks yet!! you wouldn't bend a cast crank with a spanner how ever large. It would shatter before it bent and none have yet...
If you lighten your front pulley... enough... or use an aluminium one you have no choice..
Again a very good point
Cheers
rich
sigpic
"For what you spent on that you could have brought a new car"
BUT I DON'T WANT A NEW CAR!
1995 S2 Avant, Volcano Black
1982 VW Golf Mk1, primer yellow, will be finished one day, maybe.
2003 VW T4 long nose X pack, (has become project)
Djones has a clever alternative method which he lashed up. I'm not getting into the argument about crank bending etc..
There are plenty of folk on the forum with the correct factory locking tools. I was offered use of this 2084 tool by a kind member in Ireland- it has extra sections welded on to make it work with ABY pulleys. The more correct tool for ABY & AAN is the 3256. Both are available on eBay frequently for not ridiculous money. I also know a tool supplier in Germany who can get them for OK money.
Just as a heads up - the smaller tool on the left of the 3 in that picture didnt fit my ABY when i had one, it was about a pulley's thickness too short to fit - perhaps as my car had aircon?
Just in case people see them on the bay and wanted to pick one up
Ant
2007 Mk5 Golf GTi, 3 door, DSG, REVO Stg 2 and other goodies
2011 Kawasaki Z1000
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