Oil Pressure issues

[UrS4boy]

... Likewise I've noticed casting variations around the area in question. Where some have a different style check valve.

Photos for the archives, by chance?

[JP]

The last engine I fitted arp mains to did not need shor5ening and did not hit the check valve either. However I used a different source so 5he kit may be different. Likewise I've noticed casting variations around the area in question. Where some have a different style check valve.

[Thuppu]

Only *minor* problem is dropping the sump on an UrS4 insitu is not easy. But it can be done, as shown in this recent quattroworld thread (a fellow bought a "built" engined-UrS6 but it had almost no oil pressure) (problem was, as suspected, a crushed oil pressure check valve):

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/247735.phtml

It is quite easy in the end. You just have to drop the subframe a couple of inches to get it out. Have done it a couple of times.

[euro_urs4]

Yes I agree with everyone I will take a look at it tonight and keep you posted if I will have to drop my sump

[AndyP]

It's not easy on the S2 either BTDT, but it's easier than re-building your engine that's just failed through lack of oil pressure

[UrS4boy]

I wouldn't risk breaking it lose, you could risk getting debris in your oil system. It should unscrew easily, if in doubt I'd drop the sump and pull the stud.

Only *minor* problem is dropping the sump on an UrS4 insitu is not easy. But it can be done, as shown in this recent quattroworld thread (a fellow bought a "built" engined-UrS6 but it had almost no oil pressure) (problem was, as suspected, a crushed oil pressure check valve):

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/247735.phtml

[Error404]

Yes. I was talking about ARP main crank bearing cap studs, not head studs. However, there is likely an issue with the ARP crank cap studs, even if installed finger tight, unless you shorten that particular cap stud by about 3 threads. Otherwise, why would 034 sell their kit with a pre-shortened cap stud and flag the issue?:

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...-i5-p-343.html

You will do no harm tightening the full size ARPs by hand, but they don't fit properly. The shorter cut 034 set will still damage the check valve if it is tightened mechanically, as there is no shoulder on the stud and it goes in far enough to damage the valve, depsite being shorter. IMHO the reason it is shortened is to even up the installed height of the studs and give the nut enough thread to engage on, not to try to protect the valve. Studs should alway only ever be installed hand tight, shortened ARP or not. The way to do it is to install the check value and then install the stud, by hand only

[AndyP]

I wouldn't risk breaking it lose, you could risk getting debris in your oil system. It should unscrew easily, if in doubt I'd drop the sump and pull the stud.

[euro_urs4]

Yes it won't hurt, just take the oil pressure gauge sender out and un-screw the valve. If it won't unscrew it probably means the stud is pushed up against it and holding it in place

If it doesn't unscrew at that point , should I try breaking it lose or better take the next step and remove the bottom to get to the stud ?

[UrS4boy]

It's the mains studs that hits the valve not the head stud. It will only crush the valve if you tighten the stud right down when fitting it, if you just put them in finger tight you'll be ok.

Yes. I was talking about ARP main crank bearing cap studs, not head studs. However, there is likely an issue with the ARP crank cap studs, even if installed finger tight, unless you shorten that particular cap stud by about 3 threads. Otherwise, why would 034 sell their kit with a pre-shortened cap stud and flag the issue?:

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-audi-i5-arp-main-stud-kit-audi-i5-p-343.html

[AndyP]

Yes it won't hurt, just take the oil pressure gauge sender out and un-screw the valve. If it won't unscrew it probably means the stud is pushed up against it and holding it in place

[euro_urs4]

It's the mains studs that hits the valve not the head stud. It will only crush the valve if you tighten the stud right down when fitting it, if you just put them in finger tight you'll be ok.

sorry ment to say main stud, and i had the shop install these so i am not sure what they did or did not do, doesn't hurt to remove it and verify that its not crushed im guessing.

[AndyP]

UrS4boy... Is it known that everytime a arp head stud bolt will hit the check valve ? And can this be fixed outside the motor , or does it have to be taken apart? I have experienced low oil pressure previously which I thought was from my oil pump that shattered on the front, once that was replaced all seemed well, and

It's the mains studs that hits the valve not the head stud. It will only crush the valve if you tighten the stud right down when fitting it, if you just put them in finger tight you'll be ok.

[euro_urs4]

Based on the investigative videos in the link that I posted, the stock cap BOLTS will only just "touch" (by 2 or 3 threads) the check valve area IF AND ONLY IF the bolt is installed WITHOUT the main cap, i.e. while chasing the threads clear. When installed normally, with the main cap, the correct stock OE bolt will never come into contact with the oil check valve.

UrS4boy... Is it known that everytime a arp head stud bolt will hit the check valve ? And can this be fixed outside the motor , or does it have to be taken apart? I have experienced low oil pressure previously which I thought was from my oil pump that shattered on the front, once that was replaced all seemed well, and

Now I am experiencing low oil pressure slightly below 1bar, after my holset super 40 rear piston seal went, and I also just recently changed my oil out line to 12an and oil in to 6an, could these larger lines cause for a slighlt pressure loss ?

[UrS4boy]

....So, is there some changes in the stock bolts? Has the part been number changed?

Based on the investigative videos in the link that I posted, the stock cap BOLTS will only just "touch" (by 2 or 3 threads) the check valve area IF AND ONLY IF the bolt is installed WITHOUT the main cap, i.e. while chasing the threads clear. When installed normally, with the main cap, the correct stock OE bolt will never come into contact with the oil check valve.