Oil Pressure issues

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    Originally posted by Zoig
    That's the weird part, i'm using only stock bolts so there should have been no crushing. Engine has K24 7400 so there was no sense for anything else than rebuilt stock internals.
    Sonic did have the same issue. http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66064

    So, is there some changes in the stock bolts? Has the part been number changed?

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  • Zoig
    replied
    That's the weird part, i'm using only stock bolts so there should have been no crushing. Engine has K24 7400 so there was no sense for anything else than rebuilt stock internals.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Videos that show how an ARP crank main stud can crush the oil check valve

    Zoig: I guess you missed my post from a few days ago, i.e. videos that show how an ARP crank main stud that hasn't been shortened will crush the oil check valve, leading to all sorts of nasty oil pressure issues:



    Another related recent post:
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  • Tonks4x4
    replied
    Originally posted by Zoig

    Then the one way valve was changed inside block, just behind the oil pressure sensor that keeps the oil draining back from the head. The valve I had in was stuck half way open and crushed for unknown reason, so it flowed a bit but just not enough to keep the pressure up. With a brand new (10£) valve the pressure reached almost 7Bar on startup, and fell down to 1.9Bar on warm oli, slight revving boosted the pressure back to 6Bar.
    You have fitted ARP studs, and not shortened the one that needs shortening before fitting. Or it crushes the check valve....



    Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

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  • Zoig
    replied
    Sorry to wake up the old thread, but it might be useful to someone in the future.

    My UrS6 2.2T oil pressure was missing after rebuild, checked with both mechanical gauge and the cluster 0-5Bar gauge. Pressure was completely 0, I tried releasing the oli feed to the turbo and there was oli flow when cranking the engine. Also tried remonving the oli manometer to see if there is oli flow to it (M10x1 upper position instead of 1.8Bar sensor) and there was also olilflow.

    Changed the oli pump for another unit that I knew was in working order but just not as good, gained a bit of oli pressure up to 1.2Bar in cold start but started falling towards 0 when getting warmer, turned off the engine just when the tappet serenade started playing.

    Brand new Mahle filter boosted the pressure up to 3Bar on start, but still started falling down when the oil started getting warmer, also had the tappet serenade once again. initially i had some kind of cheap filter for initial engine startup.

    Then the one way valve was changed inside block, just behind the oil pressure sensor that keeps the oil draining back from the head. The valve I had in was stuck half way open and crushed for unknown reason, so it flowed a bit but just not enough to keep the pressure up. With a brand new (10£) valve the pressure reached almost 7Bar on startup, and fell down to 1.9Bar on warm oli, slight revving boosted the pressure back to 6Bar.

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  • AndyP
    replied
    Thats almost the same as I get on the same oil.

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  • A80Avant
    replied
    so we changed the oil today only, to 10W50 titan fuchs and used a MANN filter.

    oil pressure seems to have gained slightly about 0.2bar.

    So now sits most of the times around 1.6 to 1.8bar at coolant temp of 80C and rpm 940.
    Once the fan kicks in and temps reach 83 and above, it goes to 1.4ish bar

    any revs above 2000rpm is already around 3.8 to 4bar.

    I didnt change the pressure sensor in order to see if the oil was the culprit. It seems that somewhat it was.

    However, in the process of tracking a couple of small oil leaks, i have arranged to meet Brian later in the month to change the sender anyway, along with looking for possible leak areas.

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  • A80Avant
    replied
    good to know.
    Looks like with a fully new rebuilt engine, i would excpect some kind of minor improvement on the gauge anyway.

    thanks for the info!

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  • max_s2
    replied
    RPM's are so hight because of faulty IAC valve, havent replaced it yet. At ~900rpm I usualy have 1.5-2bar the point was to show that mine VDO pressure sender reads exactly the same as mechanical gauge.

    I don't know the correct KM's of the car. When I bought it, it had almost 500k on the dash but I was told that it was replaced because of kind a errors and before it was aprox 220k if I can believe it. Now I've my ex-S2 dash with aprox those same 220k.

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  • AndyP
    replied
    Originally posted by terrybullwon
    So what's the spanner size on the oil gauge sender?
    Just been and measured one and it's 17mm.

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  • A80Avant
    replied
    that indeed. at 1100rpm i bet mine is near 1.8bar

    my idle on the dash sits just below the 1000mark and vems reads it at between 910-940rpm when the engine is really hot.

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  • terrybullwon
    replied
    So what's the spanner size on the oil gauge sender?

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    Max, quite high idle rpm's on warm engine..?

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  • A80Avant
    replied
    how many kms do you have?

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  • max_s2
    replied
    Today messured my ABY's oil pressure and it seems that I've everything tiptop with gauge readings.




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