Audi RS2 timing or belt question

[twoqu]

Those small holes could simply be for a VAG cam sprocket holding tool (so you can provide a counter force when removing the cam sprocket bolt).

Surely thats what the big holes are for!
Lets see if my pulley matches the OP's pulley. If it does it must be incorrect as we know the RS2 uses a different one. If by chance the pic you have is different then perhaps it is the RS2 one although why we cannot' see a B is at present inexplicable!

[UrS4boy]

The diagonal pic is one tooth out I think! Both those pulleys are identical. The one without the key is from an AAN the other is from an ABY. I have only just noticed that the mark on the inside of the pulley is aligned with one of the holes. Its clearer on the cleaner pulley. That makes sense to aid alignment when attaching the rotor ring.

Not sure what this proves but here is some info about the alignment of a non-ADU sprocket and shutter wheel.

[minim]

Not very skilled editing here but I think it does the job It's 100% certain that I have a wrong pulley now I guess? Comparison in the youtube link.

http://youtu.be/FCclAEfvxK4

[UrS4boy]

.... why we cannot' see a B is at present inexplicable!

Can you see this?

[twoqu]

That should be enough to help in identify his!

[twoqu]

OP yep that settles it!
Dave I am talking about the other pic that the movie comparsion was based on. If it is indeed different then it must be the RS2 one. Unfortunately we could have done with a flat pic to make sure. Please try harder next time!
Those holes must be either for alignment of the hall sender rotor or for some sort of jig for cam timing during assembly. Thats why they are not at the same position.
In the pic that the comparsion is based on it looks as though the cad plating had been removed somehow perhaps when cleaning it up. If the B on the back was printed rather than stamped that might explain why its no longer visible. The pic of the RS2 pulley from the back on the engine shows a stain under one of the holes so perhaps its from the same source but somebody has attempted to clean it.
Its a shame we cannot put this to bed but all we can say is that the pulley that came off does appear to identical to the AAN/ABY pulley.

[twoqu]

You haven't put a wanted ad up for a pulley. It's worth a shot to save $400! Who knows they might even be kind enough to provide a pic or two!

[minim]

You haven't put a wanted ad up for a pulley. It's worth a shot to save $400! Who knows they might even be kind enough to provide a pic or two!

Have been thinking a bit about what you said about weak spots on this engine and hesitating a bit to put in a second hand pulley if that's the case about these pulleys also. I think I will check what vagcom says about hall sensor error tomorrow and if there is a fault about it I might just get a new original one

Not sure if I want to risk a rebuild of the top just to save a few bucks or what do you say?

[twoqu]

Its a fair point. These things often come back to bite you on the backside. Obviously its an expense you would rather not have but if you don't want to consider the alernative then there is no other option.
Do it once, do it right. Not really a half measure on these vehicles. Most damage seems to occur from hamfisted mechanics and improper procedures.

[minim]

I actually found one that wanted to sell me a used one but then complete with cam's also and that would cost more than getting just the new wheel. Asked him if he had time to take a picture of the back side of the pulley so if I'm lucky I get something I can compare mine against

[minim]

Not directly related to the topic, but I got the ODB2->ODB1 connector from Ross tech today. I connected it and the only two modules that it was possible to find was ABS and Air/Ventilation. On the engine module I just got a message that said that I could not connect. It's a genuine ross-tech cable and adapter and I'm using the newest version of vagcom. It would be great if I could get the readout from the engine to see if I have a stored hall sensor fault due to the wrong pulley.

Was wondering if this could be that I used the wrong connecting point for the diagnostic. I found them in the fuse box in the engine compartment and followed the colors. There is also a blue plug located close to the black/white connector but I don't know what that is for.



Anyways I decided that I could order the parts anyways as we found out that it was a wrong pulley. Ordered following parts so I hope it's correct now. Will update with more pictures as I get the new pulley in 2-3 days.

-034 198 025 F Seal for valve cover
-034 109 105 B Pulley
-034 105 263 A Pulley
-034 109 119 C Belt
-N 012 708 2 Key? (don't know the translation for this but it's the key that holds the pulley on the cam shaft on the right possition. On the pulley I had it was integrated in the pulley so will see what I get now)
-N 902 562 02 Bolt
-034 105 229 Bolt

[twoqu]

Do you have an aftermarket immobolizer/alarm? Might need to disarm it before trying.

[mcandmar]

Not directly related to the topic, but I got the ODB2->ODB1 connector from Ross tech today. I connected it and the only two modules that it was possible to find was ABS and Air/Ventilation. On the engine module I just got a message that said that I could not connect. It's a genuine ross-tech cable and adapter and I'm using the newest version of vagcom. It would be great if I could get the readout from the engine to see if I have a stored hall sensor fault due to the wrong pulley.

As above, make sure ignition is on and any alarms/immobilisers are disabled. Next check all the fuses, specifically that unpopulated red fuse holder in your fuse box, dont know off hand what its for but it shouldn't be empty.

[minim]

Ok I will check that. I do have a alarm on it but not sure if it's aftermarket or what. It is disabled when I unlock the car with the key as I did now.

I got a immobilizer on it. Have to put in a "keyfob" next to the key and I then get some seconds window to start the car. By disabling this you mean I have to remove wires or just put the keyfob thing into it and leave it there?

[mcandmar]

Put the keyfob in to disable it. If it comes back on after a few seconds then start the engine first, then try connecting with vagcom.