Boost stops at 1.4bar - N75?

[geneandbolly]

i have an identical problem with my s6. first run with vag com showed up a fault with the n75 and the latest test didn't show up any fault! anyway, i got a new n75 which i'm hoping i'll get the chance to change today, but will try that moisture trap first!

thanks for the tip..

[hunker7]

i have an identical problem with my s6. first run with vag com showed up a fault with the n75 and the latest test didn't show up any fault! anyway, i got a new n75 which i'm hoping i'll get the chance to change today, but will try that moisture trap first!

thanks for the tip..

Let us know if new N75 fixes the problem

[UrS4boy]

Oops. See below.

[UrS4boy]

LHD and RHD UrS6 Moisture Trap Locations

i have an identical problem with my s6. ..., but will try that moisture trap first!

Good news/bad news:

Good news: The UrS6 moisture trap is located in the passenger cabin, by the ECU, not on the firewall. That means the hoses are not subject to heat shrinkage, etc. and tend to not come off the moisture trap.

Bad news: The hoses tend to not come off the moisture trap = you can't solve your problem with a 30p gear clamp or too.

LHD UrS6 moisture trap:



More moisture trap info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20401.phtml

RHD UrS6 moisture trap (unannotatd base photo courtesy of Popdemic):

[geneandbolly]

If you want our help, please be consistent with what you are reporting as "boost".

if you want to help us simpletons, then please give us the right information, you fanny!! (nb:"fanny" - a glaswegian term of mocking and endearment for someone who spectacularly makes an **** of themselves but you don't hold it against them)

[QUOTE=UrS4boy;802479]Good news/bad news:

Good news: The UrS6 moisture trap is located in the passenger cabin, by the ECU, not on the firewall. That means the hoses are not subject to heat shrinkage, etc. and tend to not come off the moisture trap.

i checked my s6 today and was puzzled for some time trying to find this mystical moisture trap . . this is what my car looks like . .



anyway, like i suspected, it's the n75 that was to blame. i replaced it with the J version (part no. 034906283 J - thanks spink!), fitted new clips etc and took the car for a blast tonight - it's like a new engine in there now!!!

the dud n75 valve:



the replacement J valve:






no spluttering/ hesitation at 4000rpm+ any longer - it pulls strong and right round the rev range without any trouble whatsover.

i love this old car annnnnd i can actually work on it without getting skint knuckles - what's not to like!!

[geneandbolly]

oh 2.1 2.2 you will never see..

i beg to differ, old chap . ..

[UrS4boy]

N75 WGFV info and review of N75 options

Pertinent N75 PN's are:

034 906 283 J = stock 3B (in 200 20v and S2)
034 906 283 H = stock AAN (UrS4 and UrS6)
034 906 283 K = S2 ABY and RS2 ADU

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20987.phtml

[geneandbolly]

J valve - works a treat on my aan

http://forums.audiworld.com/audi-ori.../#post18772235

[UrS4boy]

J valve - works a treat on my aan
http://forums.audiworld.com/audi-ori.../#post18772235

But based on that article (which is also linked in my N75 info post), the stock 283H AAN WGFV should be better than the "J".

But whatever floats....

[geneandbolly]

for a few quid, it floats alright..

[hunker7]

I think mine is the problem too, checked all the hoses, all tightened up and still no boost. What is the difference between J's and H's?

P.S. Glad to hear that your problem is solved @geneandbolly

[geneandbolly]

I think mine is the problem too, checked all the hoses, all tightened up and still no boost. What is the difference between J's and H's?

P.S. Glad to hear that your problem is solved @geneandbolly

i am sure that the canadian smarty pants will be able to tell us!

check this piece here and in particular the graphs for the J and H models - it means little to me but the H one goes higher up the charts by a smidgen - perhaps you can make more of it than i can. all i care about is that my car showed 2.2 bar on the gauge today and goes like lightning - that'll do me nicely

http://forums.audiworld.com/audi-ori.../#post18772235

[UrS4boy]

i am sure that the canadian smarty pants will be able to tell us!

I can't tell you the physical differences, e.g. spring strength, solenoid windings, etc. but I can point you (again) to the same article you are pointing to that found that 283H was better (for their tests) than either the 3B's 283J or the ABY/ADU's 283K.

http://forums.audiworld.com/audi-ori.../#post18772235

[geneandbolly]

*ding ding* round three !!

if my car was worth it, i might think about spending the £125+vat on the H model!! for now and £20 the J will do quite nicely, thank you!!

[hunker7]

Well, i couldn't find H valve anywhere, so i bought J one off ebay (genuine stuff). Will report back if that fixes the problem, cos sorting out loose-ish hoses didn't help... Unfortunately, as that would've been cheap fix.