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Anyone tried a different n75 valve on there cars

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  • #16
    UrS4boy, that is known and also appicable for 3b engines but, mine does click and works as supposed.. How well do they work, do they leak etc? that is what I want to know, how do they work under stress.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by domas View Post
      UrS4boy, that is known and also appicable for 3b engines but, mine does click and works as supposed.. How well do they work, do they leak etc? that is what I want to know, how do they work under stress.
      My comments re: checking the N75 via an output test was directed towards Val, not you.

      As for what you are looking for, I personally don't know of any such testing. I also haven't heard of one leaking, except maybe at a nipple because some ham-fisted mechanic broke it (a nipple) installing a hose or what not.
      RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
      94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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      • #18
        I had one that leaked from where the solenoid mounts, it showed up in a boost test. I also had one that used to stick and give me boost spikes. Washing out with WD40 would fix it for a while.

        S2 Coupe 3B Project


        Ur quattro restoration

        S2 Avant

        Boost is the new rock and roll!
        sigpic

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        • #19
          Many years ago there was a little group buy for a blink code tester to keep in the glove box. Would be trivial to make more of these http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24390 May be it could be something we could add to a forum shop
          Greg

          S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

          '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Greg_S View Post
            Many years ago there was a little group buy for a blink code tester to keep in the glove box.
            And for those who can't count very well but can read numbers, you could buy these for a bit more money:

            Results of testing his equipment: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...ighlight=codes

            These (not to the same scale):

            RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
            94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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            • #21
              Very true, I have a basic vagcom cable for the garage but looks like a good one to keep to hand.
              Greg

              S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

              '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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              • #22
                I'm using an eboost2 controller that came with a 3way MAC valve. apparently these can be used as a replacement for 20vt engines too. there was a post about them somewhere some time ago now.....
                1986 Coupe q - 2281cc 3B, chargecooler, 2.75" exh & downpipe, ported head, water injection, CGR box, modified MD357 turbo, 440cc injectors, high power coil.
                2004 A4 2.5TDi convertible, re-mapped to 180bhp
                2011 A5 sportback 3TDi-Backbox delete, remap

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 20Vcqdriver View Post
                  I'm using an eboost2 controller that came with a 3way MAC valve. apparently these can be used as a replacement for 20vt engines too. there was a post about them somewhere some time ago now.....
                  Like this one?

                  http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...ght=heavy+duty

                  RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
                  94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant

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                  • #24
                    I'm also Unding the Mac One. It is fastet and will last forever

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                    • #25
                      Do not use mac valves if you are using the stock ECU, they do not work right and taper boost off on top. Tested plenty of times.
                      All this stuff about "aggressive" is BS. Different valves react slightly differently to PWM, due to port configuration, some have different springs inside, that's all.
                      All it will do is overshoot it's boost control somewhat resulting in a yo-yo effect, but with a soft spring it does not matter that much…

                      That said, most of the time there is absolutely nothing wrong with the N75 valves, in fact they fairly rarely fail and are extremely easy to test.
                      Problem is these cars are 20 years old, so there are lots of things failing, which are actually very reliable by today's standards - such as the ignition coil system, n75, various hoses, MAF's etc.
                      If you just fit a new part, most likely you won't have to look at it for another 10 years.
                      http://tuner.ee - http://www.facebook.com/tuner.ee

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                      • #26
                        dusting off this thread...

                        in some other thread, PRJ said this N75 was no good:
                        Originally posted by Henkjan View Post
                        since I trust his judgement, it is on the "to be replaced" list

                        on the german typ44 site
                        http://audi100.net/Technik/Tips___Tr.../race_n75.html
                        I came across a Pierburg N75 , apparently used in the 2.7tt's
                        all the fuzz that this is a "race" N75 makes me a bit suspicious however



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                        • #27
                          So again sorry for resurrecting another old thread.. When I scanned the car today I got a N75 error.

                          01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
                          31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

                          I'll check the wiring tomorrow but I'm guessing my valve is dead. Now looking at the part number of this valve in etka is was used In RS2, S2, golf's, polo's, Passat's etc etc. So after looking around there is nothing in the way of aftermarket options. In post number 9 in this thread there was talk of using any 20v n75 valve. Now the 1.8 ADR is a 20V engine and would have the correct plug on it so I'm wondering if that would work, or is it a case of try it and see. I cannot see this being any form of "performance" valve as it was used in the 1.0 ltr VW Polo! Anyone else using a know valve that does not cost over £150 (including shipping).
                          Last edited by B5NUT; 13 October 2021, 23:05.

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                          • #28
                            I have a genuine VAG n75 I can check the part number.
                            however have you tested the valve with VCDS, I have seen this fault when the wiring to the block needed cleaning up. Short to ground normally indicates a duff earth or it's been unplugged at some point.

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                            • #29
                              From memory it was down to a crudded connection to the oil pressure sender or something.. I'm racking.my brains as it was a fault with my.mates ABY

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                              • #30
                                Part number of the genuine item 034133517. I'll be checking the wiring tomorrow and test the valve.

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