That bloomin MAF connector!

[Cottis]

The Caig Deoxit I mean, I can ovvo source some paper ha ha. Anywhere I can buy this stuff locally so i can sort this out tomorrow. If it is only online, I am sure some standard contact cleaner will work. I'm off out shopping

[newsh]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/17150...f14=108&ff19=0

or

http://www.futureshop.co.uk/product_...7#.VHoOJdKsXfI

and I used 2000 grit I think.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_od...+grit&_sacat=0

[Cottis]

Cheers John, guess I had better go find some finer paper, 1200 is the finest I have. Is that maybe still a bit too coarse or once lubed would it be ok?

[newsh]

1200 will be ok if you wear it out a bit first

Of course you could have a boost leak which will give similar symptoms.

[rynaqui]

Looks like this must be contagious or something as on the way home on WOT the turbo would just cut out completely and make loud bangs

No smoke but it is cutting out on WOT. Wiggle of the connector and nothing changed..

Will have to get this done this week.

[Cottis]

Could be a boost leak but this is worth doing anyway for a longer term fix on what is clearly a weak point. It cannot hurt. Will report back tomorrow if I get a chance to have a look and will then pressure test the system if this does not fix.

MRC did a full health check on it less than 2000miles ago and replaced several hoses and clips before declaring it tight. That is not to say something else has not loosened up somewhere but I am happy to wager a corroded female pin on the MAF connector being to blame.

[GrantGam]

Guys,

Forget about the connector... Open up the MAF sensor and clean the metallic elements with contact cleaner and an ear bud. Problem solved!

Grant

[newsh]

Hi Grant The MAF is self cleaning, every time you start the car it glows red hot and burns any contamination off. It gets the current to do this through the same connector pin that it uses to measure air flow. The pin gets some corrosion and burning from the high current and the air flow reading goes out of whack and the car starts behaving like it has a boost leak.

I have never EVER cleaned my MAF wire and I've been on the same MAF for 10 years and 130,000 miles. When you cleaned you MAF wire the other day you unplugged it and plugged it back in, IMHO this is what fixed your running issues. If you don't take the pins out and clean them properly in between the mating surfaces you problem will come back.

I guess cleaning the MAF wire will not hurt, back in the day a forum member invented the MAF BAF (bath) to do this job, the practice has not continued though. I wouldn't touch the wire though, even with a Q tip.

[Cottis]

As expect, it is something to do with the MAF connector but I need help John ha ha. I have sorted the issue for now by fixing some worn down 1200 wet and dry to a lolly stick and dousing it in Halfrauds contact cleaner (whilst I wait for Caig) before "filing" away gently at the single pins in the actual MAF. I have only been able to do this because after removing the boot from the MAF connector on my 3B, I just could not get any of the pins to release using your paperclip method. I also forgot my phone, so could not take pics of what I was obviously doing wrong, arghgh! After seating and re-seating the connector into the MAF with a covering of contact cleaner on the MAF side pins, the car is driving really really well. Smoother off boost and once the turbo kicks in properly, it is smooth with no sign of judder or boost cut whatsoever. It is as good as it ever has been I would say.

However, I would like to get the pins out of the MAF connector itself, so I can give them a good clean and ensure a veneer of contact cleaner lines the internals of those pins before seating back in the connector. That should solve the issue for longer in my opinion.

Is there some kind of knack? I tried pushing the wire in and then using my double pronged paper clip either side of pins but to no avail. The ABY one looks easier as you actually take the pin bracket out of the connector. My 3b connector does not look like that. Assume you have a 3B on yours as that is what it was originally?

[newsh]

Yes mate, the 3B was the car I did this on first. There is indeed a knack to getting the pins out and I don't always have it, it has to be a good day for it

The important thing is not to tug on the wire until the tangs have been pushed back by the paperclip, in fact if you push the wire into the connector first, wriggle the paperclip in there and then pull gently you are more likely to succeed. If the tangs are released then the pin will slip out easily, if you try and force it the tangs will dig in, bend and it gets a whole load more difficult. I now have a proper tool for doing these which was given to me by a mate who used to work at Audi, funny thing is it's still not easy even with the correct tool. The secret is to push the wire, slide the tool in and then pull.

[Cottis]

Hmmm, what is this tool you talk of ha ha. Where I can get me one of these? It sounds like a must for S2 owners.

I think I might make something myself and wait till next year when it warms up. Sat on a bucket in the cold today, asking my numb fingers to perform an impossible task was amusing but essentially unsuccessful.

[newsh]

This might be the right size.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-For-S...item54074577c2

Here's a few

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.ph.../?k=:::1809806

http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.ph.../?k=:::4475179

This one looks good

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unlocking-...item5b08cfb9ff

[Cottis]

Cheers mate.

[Error404]

Just to add to this thread, I can now supply the proper gold plated terminals if anyone want to replace them.

[Cottis]

Alex do you mean the pins that are part of the MAF itself or the locating metal contacts inside the actual connector (that is not part of the MAF) Hope that makes sense. I still think mine are causing issues and if I can replace it, that would be great.