That bloomin MAF connector!

[newsh]

well i cleaned my connector last night with a peice of wet and dry and even put a little copper slip on it ,this morning the car ran perfectly again no hesitation ,full boost and better mpg totally differant from yesterday i didnt reset the ecu either.

Its a miracle

[rj scotty]

I had overboost kicking in today at about 0.7 bar.

Cured it by plugging/unplugging the MAF.

just a thought

cheers

rich

[NZS2]

I had similar issues with the MAF connector / rough running...what I did was connect it up, pull back the rubber boot and use a really small screwdriver to push the individual connections in, so onto the MAF better. A couple of mine weren't seating properly and when pushed on seperately got better contact.

Did that to all the connectors around the engine and it made a big difference.

[Heat Seeking Missile]

Does this sound glaringly similar to this problem?

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32178

Going to go and check it out once I've finished my breakfast.

John, when your car did this, was it only under load? Mine only seems to have this problem while moving, revving it in neutral, everything seems fine.

Mark

[newsh]

Yep only under load, the car goes better on a light throttle than if you put your foot down. I thought that when I just read your post, either that or a leak..

[Heat Seeking Missile]

I've just been out and tried bending the pins a little bit, giving them a bit of wet n dry and a wiggle but to no avail. Still no difference. Since getting it back on the road these past few days, admittedly I've only been testing it up and down the road to see if everything I've done has sorted it, yet I'm only getting 12mpg. I'd have thought it would have been a bit better than that.

Mark

[dkw_dude]

As far as I can tell, the mass air flow sensor (MAF) for the ABY S2 is the same as that for the RR Urq, the 3B S2 and 200 20vt and the UrS4 and UrS6 (all same PN 034 133 471 K). The RS2 MAF is different (but similar).

As with all Audi electrical devices, the power is brought to the device in a female flat pin connector that mates up (no pun intended) with the male pins that stick out of the device that is to be powered, in this case, the MAF. In the case of the MAF, it's a flat six pin female connector or "terminal housing" in Audispeak.

The PN for this six pin connector was originally 022 906 233 A. However, at some point, it was dropped and replaced by 025 906 238 B. The female pins for this connector typically come two on a yellow covered pig tail wire. The PN for these female connectors is 000 979 133 or 133A for the 1 mm wide pins or 225 or 225 A for the 2.5 mm wide pins. The "A" is for the gold-plated version (slightly more costly but likely the ones you want if corrosion is a problem).

Hope that helps. Either that or use Stabilant 22.

Thx for the part numbers. My s2 has the described symptoms also, I have picked up some gold type 2.5mm wires/pins and will change them and see if the car runs more consistent and with less hesitation . I don't have the correct tooling for removing the old pins but will use a pair of very small screwdrivers or try to make a tool .

[newsh]

Try a paper clip.

[dkw_dude]

Aha.. will try that , thanks!

[jameswkr]

Tried NZS2s tip yesterday and have just come in from a test run. I had one individual connector that moved when pushed "home" with the rubber boot pulled back - the first one on the left . The car is much more responsive and is pulling harder. ( I also had the - less throttle the better it seemed to go scenario ). No ECU reset. Now about to check all the others, starting with the throttle pot connector. Still learning even after 6 years of ownership....

[Greg_S]

Just reading this and wonder if this might have something to do with the problem I have had since I did reset the ECU the other day too. Will try this next if it returns

[Pirvu Eugen]

Sorry for question....Insight the ECU conector....wich pins are? the 2.5mm ones? I have to add some wires for the ignition coils in my 3b loom.
Thank You!
Eugen

As far as I can tell, the mass air flow sensor (MAF) for the ABY S2 is the same as that for the RR Urq, the 3B S2 and 200 20vt and the UrS4 and UrS6 (all same PN 034 133 471 K). The RS2 MAF is different (but similar).

As with all Audi electrical devices, the power is brought to the device in a female flat pin connector that mates up (no pun intended) with the male pins that stick out of the device that is to be powered, in this case, the MAF. In the case of the MAF, it's a flat six pin female connector or "terminal housing" in Audispeak.

The PN for this six pin connector was originally 022 906 233 A. However, at some point, it was dropped and replaced by 025 906 238 B. The female pins for this connector typically come two on a yellow covered pig tail wire. The PN for these female connectors is 000 979 133 or 133A for the 1 mm wide pins or 225 or 225 A for the 2.5 mm wide pins. The "A" is for the gold-plated version (slightly more costly but likely the ones you want if corrosion is a problem).

Hope that helps. Either that or use Stabilant 22.

[dkw_dude]

Thx for the part numbers. My s2 has the described symptoms also, I have picked up some gold type 2.5mm wires/pins and will change them and see if the car runs more consistent and with less hesitation . I don't have the correct tooling for removing the old pins but will use a pair of very small screwdrivers or try to make a tool .

Started on this mission, tried to make a tool, but it didn't work out. Is this the right tool (think so)?:

http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html

I ordered two housings so it will all new stuff on the MAF and TPS in a while

[simon44]

Hi,

I'm relatively new to RS2 ownership but quickly learning. After a recent service which included a new Lambda sensor, diverter valve and N75, I took my RS2 to MRC for a health check. The laptop picked up an error which from memory indicated an issue with the air mixture. Doug reset the Lambda and made an inspection of the MAF and plug. The laptop then showed all ok.

However when cold/warming up I occasionally get a small delay in acceleration which is not present when the car is warm. It's best described as a hesitation. I'm going to look at the plug to the MAF tonight when I get home. (interestingly pre service/new parts there was no hesitation!).

Cheers

Simon

[dkw_dude]

Report:
Replaced wires for MAF connector (soldered in new wires with pre terminated 2,5mm gold connectors, and then crimped over the soldered parts of the wires), replaced MAF contact housing also. I also noticed that it fitted more firmly to the MAF. I have some pics of the "operation" if requested.

Tested for a few days, it seems more consistent and better running. Did the same with the TPS connector, it ran well a day, and then it was hesitating somewhat again . But I could also see on my AF-meter that it was running rich and the AF value was reacting slowly at idle, typical of a small boost leak.

Yesterday i changed the oil and inspected things while I was under the car, and I could see the turbo to IC hose had a tear caused by the jubilee clip. Sorted that, and the car now runs really nice .

In the end I think it was worth doing on my car..