Manifold studs question

[newsh]

I've just removed the WG and turbo studs from my ABY manifold to fit to the Wagner EM.

On the turbo studs, there is a small amount of thread that has lifted a little, should I run a die down it to clean it up or just screw them back in? They were quite stiff to get out (I used the 2 nuts locked on each other method).

Also when fitting do people use copper grease or fit them dry?

These are made of some kind of serious metal, I'm wondering if a die will even work on it..

[TimE-J]

I hope I dont get shot down for this but in work IMO I would (If you have access to them) either a thread restorer/cleaner or a thread file and just give them a quick clean. Also I just tend to put them in dry.

[madpugger]

Run a Die down...

I just fitted my EVO EM today, I had to cut 4 or 5 head to manifold studs a little short as at least two hit the manifold and the others were mighty close...

[UrS4boy]

The best advice is to remove all the old ones with a proper stud socket and then replace with new studs. Guarantee if you don't one of those old studs will snap below the manifold flange when put the new EM on. It won't be pretty. I think new studs are about a GBP each. Item 9 in this diagram. Go on, treat yourself.

[veneto rs2]

I quote UrS4boy

Just went trough the same process of fitting the Wagner EM (very good casting by the way) and fit all brand new studs and bolts.

[newsh]

I'm not talking about the studs holding the manifold to the head, these were replaced recently and I had an RS2 manifold on there so I think the length will be fine. As said in my original post I'm talking about the studs which hold on the WG and Turbo. These average about 10 GBP each so I want to use them again, they're in perfect condition and made of something very strong. Only thing is that a little area of thread which was inside the manifold casting has lifted a bit. Its like the peak of the thread is hardened and separated slightly from the body of the stud.

[Phil Payne]

I'm not talking about the studs holding the manifold to the head, these were replaced recently and I had an RS2 manifold on there so I think the length will be fine. As said in my original post I'm talking about the studs which hold on the WG and Turbo. These average about 10 GBP each so I want to use them again, they're in perfect condition and made of something very strong. Only thing is that a little area of thread which was inside the manifold casting has lifted a bit. Its like the peak of the thread is hardened and separated slightly from the body of the stud.

Dialynx do a less expensive version of the wastegate stud, as do Bapp in Doncaster. The Dialynx version even has an Allen recess so you can seat it with the manifold in situ when you can't get a roller-style driver on.

The turbo studs I would get from Pete Reeve at quattro corner. He now has an even better nut - it's 14mm, giving much better clearance for the bottom one near the engine that can otherwise be such a sod.

And I've also discovered a Toyota spanner with a curve that just fits that nut ...

[Jonas_R]

I'm pretty sure the studs are a standard size so you should be able to get them cheaper from a turbo refurb company or a machineshop etc.

Anyhow I fitted mine with some exhaust paste so that when the stud gets heated up the first time they will stay in place. I dont think using copper paste is a good idea.

[Phil Payne]

I'm pretty sure the studs are a standard size so you should be able to get them cheaper from a turbo refurb company or a machineshop etc.

Anyhow I fitted mine with some exhaust paste so that when the stud gets heated up the first time they will stay in place. I dont think using copper paste is a good idea.

http://www.aetturbosonline.co.uk/ - if you ever get a chance, take a look in their dispatch bay and read the labels. Just about everyone you've ever heard of in motorsport. Not only will they have studs, they also have the elusive oil feed gaskets. Boxs full.

Take care with pastes if you have a lambda probe in service - some pastes contaminate and destroy them.

[QuattroFever]

I'm pretty sure the studs are a standard size so you should be able to get them cheaper from a turbo refurb company or a machineshop etc.

Anyhow I fitted mine with some exhaust paste so that when the stud gets heated up the first time they will stay in place. I dont think using copper paste is a good idea.

what makes you say that? copper paste would make removal easier in future.

I would think that exhaust paste will make them seize?

[Jonas_R]

that is the general idea to make the studs stay in the manifold. you dont really have to remove the studs again unless one snaps.

if you use copper paste and the nuts rust or just sieze on the stud. then when you loosen the nut you get the stud out as well. now that can make things a bit tricky.

in regards to lambda contamination i cant see how exhaust paste in a closed threaded hole can get out?

[Phil Payne]

in regards to lambda contamination i cant see how exhaust paste in a closed threaded hole can get out?

I didn't say "don't use it", I said "take care". There's a world of difference. If you use a hot holding paste such as Audi's own G 052 112 A3 then wipe off any excess before mating the flanges.

The main problem is silicon/silicate contamination. Audi's paste is silicon-free, but others might not be.

Read the label.

[UrS4boy]

I'm not talking about the studs holding the manifold to the head, these were replaced recently and I had an RS2 manifold on there so I think the length will be fine. As said in my original post I'm talking about the studs which hold on the WG and Turbo. These average about 10 GBP each so I want to use them again, they're in perfect condition and made of something very strong. Only thing is that a little area of thread which was inside the manifold casting has lifted a bit. Its like the peak of the thread is hardened and separated slightly from the body of the stud.

Sorry. My bad. So your real answer is either buy new ones (that you don't want to do) or use two nuts, jammed together on the exposed upper threads and run the studs back into the manifold tight (but don't snap them).

[newsh]

No worries! My title should have read "manifold to turbo and wastegate studs" really

I've cleaned them up and picked the best 4 ( I had 2 manifolds)