The devil vomits in my kettle (with a water leak)...

[mcandmar]

From memory there is one small bolt at the front of the seat, 8 or 10mm in size, then you remove the plastic trims from the guide rails and slide the seat fully back out of the rails. The seat rails are covered in grease so put an old rag down first so you dont make a mess of your carpet. If you have heated seats dont forget to disconnect them first.

Mine only leaked when parked up for a few weeks, i found it using a garden hose directed at the a-pillar. It was strange then it suddenly started for no reason, changed the door seal and its been fine ever since.

[Ross]

I'd be a bit worried about the sound deadening.. as said, it acts like a sponge and if that starts to go rotten you'll have to rip it all out and change it. Try and get all the water out and leave it to dry! These types of jobs really suck, no fun in comparison to chores that result in better performance

[HPmuirt]

The carpet is fairly easy to remove but is a little involved. From memory (so I have probably missed a vital step or seven) you should start at the back and work forwards.......

1. Remove the front seats (single bolt at the front, then remove the stops and slide back and out of the runners.
2. Remove rear seat base (2 screws at front)
3. In some Coupes, the carpet is screwed to the sides of the reat seat/floor area. You may also need to release lower part of rear door cards if the carpet has never been up before.
4. Remove inner sill plastic trims plus connected side trim panels
5. Release rear centre console and lift over handbrake (remember to disconnect the lighter and difflock before pulling hard)

You can now access all the floor by lifting the carpet up and forwards from the back, however if you want to remove it completely to was and then dry in the airing cupboard to remove the damp smell then......

6. Remove front centre console (carefully slide out as the top tabs snap easily)

This is a good time to run wiring for any planned stereo upgrades and also powered or electric seats

Mine took less than 2 hours to remove the carpet, remove the heated seat looms and replace with heated/electric seat looms and then replace the carpet

Hope yours dries out and you find the source

Cheers n

Si

[ericd]

Paul, has it been pissing down over ther for the last week ?, just wonder if it's being doing this for a while and its reached saturation point (pardon the pun), I'd still suspect sunroof seal , (especially if you've had itt open recently, check when it's closed if you can push it further down, what's it like round the interior rear light any sign of corrosion on the assembly, worth double checking around the antenna base when you're there), I think the coupe floorpan slopes down to the rear anyway so won'r really matter if your on level ground.

When you remove the soundproofing etc it'll give you a better idea if this has been happening for a while, soundproofing should still be pretty clean looking if it's only been exposed to water for a week or two, you're gonna have to remove carpets etc to get it dried out properly, if you can afford the time and the weather is dry (or in a garage with some airflow) I'd let it dry out naturally.

[Crawford_S2]

Yeah as above Paul, seats take 2 minutes to remove, i do mine to hover for the really good spring clean. Only way i have found effective to find a leak is get the seat out, get in and get someone to hose the car till you find it. The kids love helping with this cos they just hose where you point :-)

[S2central.net]

LOL @ Crawford - yes thats a job for a 7yr old assistant alright...

I've got the dehumdifier in the car now after soaking up another entire roll of paper towels on the 2nd pass.

The complication this week is MOT pending - great timing - NOT...

The seats and carpet don't sound too horrific to remove - just time consuming. I will run some new cables when I have it all up, but I don't want to put the carpet back until I'm 100% sure where the leak came from.

I'm really sure its not a long going problem cos it takes only a few days to get that stinky damp smell - the car was bone dry a week ago - and one of the kids was in and out of the back and there's no way that he or I would have missed the squelchy sound of water under foot.

It can't be a coincidence that the windows & sunroof were messed with - but I just can't comprehend the scale of water ingress here.

I'll have to get a look underneath properly in case a bung has popped out and she has ingested water from below - that would explain no tide marks or water stains on the door, the side trim or the roof lining.

[T2Andy]

Hi paul when sheffield flooded the other year i had the pleasure of drying and cleansing and sanitising quite a few car interiors ,i removed seats where possible
removed the back seat and lifted the carpet up creating a gap ,i used my spray extraction machine to suck out as much water as poss while spraying sanitiser
on to the affected area ,this will kill the micro organisms that create the stale orders,
there is also a product for mildew which are spores and love damp areas even seat belts get affected ,i then use a couple of hair dryers directed underneath the carpets
which realy helps the drying process ,leave windows open to allow the moisture to escape.when dry spray the carpets with a little sanitiser to freshen things up ,works for me but not a 2 min job,ive also replaced the underlay which started to fall to peices , any probs just ask

[Sonic]

This is a good time to run wiring for any planned stereo upgrades and also powered or electric seats

Was just thinking that.. perfect instructions, cheers si

[LHD_Kid]

Although it would have happened before.... just check the fitting of the trim along the base of the windscreen... if this has been dislodged fior any reason you will get almost an entire car full of water entering the car through the heater..... that fills up the footwells quite quickly......BTDT...

Good luck with sorting it, mine smelt nasty for a while - is ok now, and Fabreze (spelling?) helps ALOT

Chris

[newsh]

Seats out is a 5 minute job, just take the trim off the runner on the tunnel side, 1 self tapper on mine, and the bolt out of the adjuster track just under the front of the seat and slide the seat back to free it. If you have seat heaters unplug the wiring!

[S2central.net]

Well - I've been busy... Stripped the interior last night and took a few snaps and notes along the way.

The result of that is here ---> http://www.s2central.net/S2_How_To/

Looks like my hasty checks round the fusebox area on Friday were flawed - the gunk of leaves, goo and stuff that collects beside the fusebox had partially eaten thru the grommet for the bonnet cable. Consequently there was huge amounts of water raining down thru the auxiliary fusebox area - the foam in that area dries out quickly but the water collects in the floor - and much of rushes to the back.

Took about 3 hours to strip it all out - lots of clean up required of soggy underfelt. I had to trim the carpet up at the top of the tunnel - no way I was in the mood to remove the dash and heater.

Sooh for now I have the Group N look on the floor... Nicely noisey and racous of course, but I wouldn't like it every day - and you miss that extra inch or so of cushioning below the pedals - feels weird to drive.

I've effected a decent looking repair with some external grade silicon rubber - the really gooey, flexible stuff used on gutters - around that grommet... Thats curing off tonight in the garage and should be ready for another hosepipe test tomorrow.

So seriously everyone - check this area in the bulkhead properly - I've obviously had water coming in there for weeks and its only built up to something obviously smelly and sloshy enough to get noticed.

[S2central.net]

Heres a few pics of the water ingress... Looks like I'm shopping for some new or 2nd hand underfelt. The driver side is completely useless.

I pulled all the underfelt and noticed some small amount of water on pass side - looks like maybe a tiny crack/split in the floor - whaked on a lane once too often prolly.

[S2central.net]

And here's the root cause of the problem... This used to have a good dollop of factor fitted seam sealer around it - only a small portion remained and the the grommet itself was partially split. I know in the past I have cleaned out lots of leaves and other goo from that area - clearly I should have been checking it much more regularly.

[S2central.net]

And a question here... does everyone else (ABY) have the wiring lying open in those clips like that. I had assumed there would some protection from abrasion and feet pressure - but no.

In the family album it does actually show something they call 'conduit' which looks like what I would have expected to find. I think I might get some - to see if it works with those clips. Even with new underfelt back in - not all sections of cable are protected as I would have expected.

[S2central.net]

**** I hate throwing web pages quickly together on MS-Turd - the links all worked at first - then it broke them. PoS...