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My bushings are white , maybe the owner before bought different quality , stiffer.
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These might work (https://www.ebay.com/p/1622199067). For S2/CQ subframes.
I'm telling you though, you will struggle to get these fitted. Just go with poly or solid and grease them.Comment
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I talked to a mechanic for audi .. you need like cone pipe that press it throught so it can go down the hole ,, if not easy to brake the flange.
Ovewr every bump i go it makes noice , but i dont think it comes from the big frame busshings in front and rear , i think its the control arms ,, the V shaped ones ..Comment
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Do some exploration and test what might be squeaking. Lift car, unbolt ball joint and roll bar drop link. With wishbone mow free, move it and see what creaks... It might not be your bushes.
Roll bar drop links can creak badly if dry and worn joints.
Ive had polybush on my car for last 10 years. No squeak, no wear, no hassle fitting.
Fit some and get on with other things instead of finding problems which arent there
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Ljubisa,
You may not need a complete set of bushings, some may yet be just fine, and some are indeed very hard to replace. The three most likely to fail and make noise on a B4 such as your wagon are:
1. Front strut top-mounts;
2. Front A-arm inner bushes; and
3. Rear axle, upper A-arm inner bushes.
I haven't had to replace any of the other suspension bushes on my B4. Here's what I did:
a) Front axle.
If you are happy with what your Strut-Stops do for top-mounts, you may also like what Arm-Stops do for the front OEM rubber A-arm bushes. These inner bushes of the front (V-shaped) control arms are amongst the most heavily worked bushes on the car and are often found neglected. The rubber cores become torn internally. The Arm-Stops mod prevents this, and provides other benefits.
Link to Arms-Stops (my ad is down for service at the moment so patience please, however there is more than enough other reading there to put you to sleep!):
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...ct#post2099634
b) Rear axle (B4 chassis).
I had to replace the original inner bushings of the small upper (Y-shaped) control arms as they were done and made noise over every bump. As Steve says, with the wheels off, you can detach the upper arm and see if it is then only loosely held to the big vertical (spring, damper and upper A-arm mounting) bracket.
Because these arms are shorter in length than the main arms, these bushings have to accommodate more rotation, and therefore fail faster than others.
Like you, I'm not a fan of poly bushings that see rotation either, but here that is exactly what I did (no stock at dealer!). I expected squeaking but that hasn't happened yet! Here are links:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/aud...hings-2129366/
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/aud...hings-2784388/
Here is a link to forum member K Simmond's use of an alternate Audi OEM bushing (and also why) in the upper rear control arms:
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...es#post1224146Comment
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Lagoblue .... PM me would lik to order the arm-stops..
Best RegardsComment
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Ljubisa,
PM sent sir.Comment
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I believe its nr 4,5 and 7 ,,, maybe it could be nr 2 also.
Is it these you mean ?
Best Regards
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My experience has been that the #4's breakdown first, all the rest were still fine. Remembering that for all these bushes, the through-bolts are not to be fully tightened again until the car's full weight is lowered back down onto the suspension, that with the wheel removed, one can easily disconnect bolt #18 and try moving that upper arm both up-down and fore-aft. Is it perfectly smooth to move and yet precisely hinged, or does it make -any- noise, and/or is there -any- play which would allow the arm's outer end, when positioned horizontally, to move in the fore/aft direction?
All the other bushes are larger in diameter and/or are longer, so they have more rubber in them and in part that helps them last longer.
Regards also.
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Ljubisa,
As you have said, they are perhaps an uncommon brand (and material?), perhaps also stiffer than what others may have experience with. It could be a material issue, some plastics absorb water and swell, reducing the original clearance. In any case the noise does sound like the chatter of 'sticktion', where two surfaces in close contact are seized due to high friction (perhaps due to a simple lack of lubrication?) and when forced to move, they rapidly and repeatedly start and stop rotating against one another. Each arm (#1, #3, and #6), with one end undone, should move easily, smoothly and silently.
You may have noise from more than one location. You may have different types of bushings. Are any bushes original?
Similar to what Steve said above, I would first disconnect the A/R bar and test again for noise. Then remove bolt #18 to isolate the upper from the lower arm and see if any of the inboard bushes are noisy. I would then push and pull on arm #1 to check the #2 bushes. Then replace bolt #18 and remove bolt #17 and check bushing #5 for noise.
IIRC, because the center-lines of bushes #7 and #8 meet at an angle, a plastic bush in either of those positions would have a difficult time being quiet.
If necessary, the last I'd check would be the dampers' bushes, as they more likely still the original rubber and quiet.Comment
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So . my first try , i released all the bolts , put down the car on the wheels , on high blocks.
The fastened the bolts, tried again the same noice. I wanted to look for noice after i fastened it when it was with load.
Now i will try to isolate as LAGO saidComment
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At what Nm should the different bolts be fastened with for front and rear bushings ?Comment
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At the front i found 40nm + 90 degress on the lower ones.
But i cant find anything on the 2 upper bolts in the rear ,, 4 and 5 bushings.
And on the lower 7 and ,, cant find anything.
Im maybe fastening a bit to hard.
Want to be sure that i check of the different things correctly
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50 Nm + 90 degrees for bushes 4 and 5. bush 7 is 70 Nm + 90 degreesMike
http://www.s2-audi.co.ukComment
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