Projekt Kastor

[HPmuirt]

I am soo suprised you guys have kept this on topic given Andy's asertion that:

"This method needs a bit of incestigation as the gains are large for a little head scratching."

I just had another wacky thought - I know there will be a myriad of reasons why this won't work and that Jamo will link the 47,000 threads it has been discussed and rejected in before, but here goes....

Rather than swapping cast wishbones over, how about redesigning the 'ball joint carrier plate' (dunno what it is actually called) that bolts onto the cast wishbones and holds the ball joint?

Surely by designing a new 'ball joint carrier plate' we can get the castor and camber angle that we want (if we know what that is).

That way, Andy only has to CAD one small, simple and cheap part, meaning little additional incestigation required

Cheers n

Si

[Rusty]

I have pressed wishbones

[HPmuirt]

I have pressed wishbones

Wow Andy, I am surprised.

If that is your only excuse, get yourself a set (JonnyBravo has a set for sale here) and get CADing - I'll take a set of new plates from you when available.

Cheers n

Si

[Error404]

You could use reduced off-set ball joints to gain more castor, but being a cast part and a service item it might no be the easiest / cheapest ongoing solution - over-specced billet ones would be pimp, you could also build in some height gain to fix the roll centre geometry issues with lowered springs

The plate for the cast arms bolts through the end of the wishbone BTW, so not really a bracket per se, more of a set of 3 captive bolts

[Rusty]

HnRs are too low, I'd go for a little higher if using a coilover setup, thus reducing the risk of sump reduction surgery and getting the geometry someway back to where it should be.

[Rusty]

Right, this is coming along nicely. I've got the prototype top mount design ready to go and have just sorted a design for the offset subframe bushes. Both give a 7.5mm offset and in combination will give around 1.5 deg more castor (stock is about 2 deg). With these mods and a little tweaking on the alignment ramp, I should see 4 deg of castor or double what the stock setup is. This is still mild and should work well on the car for road and track use. I'll be having the parts made some time in the early summer so will hopefully be able to report back on it all before ADI.

[Error404]

might i see the drawings for the the bits matey?

[Rusty]

Bit of an update to a now, rather old thread.

Offset top mounts are on and the subframe bushes are ready to go on too

I've got an idea for some more extreme versions of these but they will have downsides that are not for everyone.

Nice to be moving forwards with this, after saving up the significant investment required.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66953

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43188

[Rusty]

So, final(ish) piece of the puzzle fitted today: I got the offset subframe bushes on! Final step is to get it all 4 wheel aligned, now that it's got all the parts on there. At that point, I'll know what castor is achievable but I'm crossing my fingers for about 4 deg, vs. the stock car's 1.5-2.

I say final(ish) because I have the production version of the top mount and some different bearings to put on there when they're purchased & made, that is.

More offset is possible with these bushes but the ARB is now close to the wing on the sump and unless, like me, you have removed the gearbox spacer, there will not be enough movement in the transmission mounts to allow for the offset...

The cap head is there to enable the bush to be secured on the subframe before fitting, so that it can all be correctly aligned off the car.

[Rusty]

Have say, I've noticed almost no change in the (already appalling) ride fitting solid top mounts and subframe bushes. Final piece of the puzzle will be wishbone bushes so I'm sure there will be a change with the cumulative effect of it all.

[Error404]

how does the steering feel mate?

[Rusty]

Like an S2... but it's not tracked up yet. I need to swap the front bearings over to freer moving items, so that should be good too. I did notice that the scrubbing on full lock seems to be much less

It's certainly feeling sharp nowadays and I think with the remaining slack taken out, it'll be a real tool, not that I couldn't drive it as was. Looking forward to Combe with the A048Rs too

[Error404]

Yeah, it will be pin sharp with full poly bushes. I'm sure you'll notice the extra castor once its aligned and you start to push it a bit harder
You should try a lower brace next

[Rusty]

Yes, I was looking at that when I was under the car. Do you have a design for one? I've not currently got contact with a large metal parts fabricator, so haven't bothered with certain things.

Having looked at the transmission mounts, I'm going to give that some thought next too, as the OE ones are built for comfort but the poly ones are too harsh... 034 density line make sense, or I may design a strengthening bracket for the OE items.

[Error404]

I haven't drawn it up, but I can take some measurements. Would need some pick-ups welding to the front chassis. Your exhaust guy could do that when you have work done on it