Track day suspension geometry

[Error404]

Around -1°40' at the front and -1°30' at the rear - I have taken as much as possible between hub and strut, but I run 245 tyres so there is not much clearance there, around 5mm.

[Takumi]

so you managed to get these with strut/hub mod + ball joint max out?

[Error404]

Yes

[Albert]

This is my setup for the next track weekend.

Front Camber -2'45 (degrees, minutes),
Front Toe +0'03 each,
Rear Camber -2'00,
Rear Toe +0'05 each.
Caster 4'50

[Audi_CQ]

The toe changes with ride height, so there will be variations no matter what you do

But much less then the change soft bushes make under hard braking, and with hard springs the height changes less then with the soft stock springs

[Rusty]

2.5 deg of camber looks pretty serious

[Albert]

2.5 deg of camber looks pretty serious

If you are refering to my setup it is 2.75 deg. (2 deg and 45 minutes).

[Rusty]

My rear camber is 2" 30' and front is 2". Need to get camber bolts up front to even it out. It's purposeful from the rest view.

[Rusty]

WOW! Is this the same car? Wet grip on the Dunlop Sport Maxx was great, dry grip on the A048s was also bloody good. Slight under steer, so I was front limited and couldn't back the car in to a corner as I'm used to doing.

Camber has made a huge difference to the stability in the corners and the steering was really accurate with the extra castor and top mount / subframe mount combo. Watched the videos back and I'm so smooth where before I was throwing the car around like a hot hatch - I miss some of the drama though.

From the session, I've concluded that I need to get more front camber and less rear and for now, I want to balance the chassis up a bit on the roll bars - smaller front, larger rear (currently 26/25!!!) Ultimately, I need to get proper springs and struts on there and get towards -3.5 at the front to balance the rear -2.5.

For an S2 to feel as stable as a B5 S4 us quite a feat and one which I'm both proud of and a little sad about

[Error404]

Stop messing and get some KWs

[Rusty]

Constructive feedback

Got more pressing things to spend on but when funds allow...

[Mr.Crossfire]

8-9 deg caster
~2,5 camber front, ~1,5 camber rear.
5-10 minutes toe-out front and about the same amount of toe in rear.

With R888, able to get some 1,2-1,3 lateral g:s.

When adjusting the static camber, the camber changes on roll has to be taken in to consideration. When cornering at full lateral g, you would get the ideal camber out of the system. So when looking at some other car's specs, the amount of static camber is sometimes more and sometimes less. I think this has to do with the camber control: if you set up 1,5deg and your geometry is such that you only gain more when chassis is rolling then there is no reason to run excessive static camber. In most econoboxes however the geometry is bad and it results to camber loss in roll so you have to set up massive static camber to compensate this.

[Error404]

Have you reached the point now with that much negative caster that you only get increased negative camber on front compression?

I think best bang-for-buck upgrade here for Mr C is stiffer rear springs

[Mr.Crossfire]

Nah, you just need extreme actions to get rid of the ridiculous push of the t89 chassis.

About the springs, not only rear but also front springs should be stiffer. The kw var3 springs are quite ok "all around" springs, with shocks turned to a soft setting it's almost comfortable to drive on streets. Then just turn shocks to stiff and its adequate on the track also. But for more serious driving, stiffer springs should be installed. How stiff? Don't know. I've been thinking to maybe try some 100kg at front and 90kg at back or so.

IMO at this point I think I don't need to adjust the rear for more oversteer. I have also the V8 diff & modified center torsen so I can basically go for throttle as soon as I remove my foot from the brake pedal. I think that the diff mods have been the best bang for the buck, V8 diff cost me 150€ and the shims for torsen something like 8€... Well, the caster mod itself did not cost much either, but it required coilovers to be possible. The next big thing would be to learn to drive. The car has changed so much over the years that I think it has some unrealized potential.

[Error404]

Just to clarify, by Mr C I meant Rusty - probably quite confusing!