New S2 Avant Nothelle N300 owner
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My (long!) process of elimination included power and continuity checks to N75 and MFTS (connected or disconnected), Swapped N75 and ECU (to an N300 vice MTM) put standard spring back in wastegate and vacuum checked for leaks, temporary replaced N75 with a turbosmart boost control (eventually ending up with it wound all the way out), removed air con belt. Car has full set of Roose boost hoses and a rebuilt turbo (last year). Throughout all of this it resolutely won’t go above 0.7 bar of boost in any combination. -
I was thinking the same thing yesterday and looking them up online. I'm just wondering if VCDS can be run whilst driving and can you view any real time values to see what's happening?Leave a comment:
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Yeah, I’ve chased my tail all day long with all manner of options. I’m thinking knock sensor now.Leave a comment:
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Took her out for a long drive. Still cutting boost after doing the fuel pump relay so stopped and pulled the MFTS. Made no difference. I have boost to about 1 bar, then cuts. Perhaps I need to do another boost leak test
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It's been so wet here I haven't taken her out. Hopefully, this weekend I can do some test runs. I suspect a poor earth on the fuel pump plug may have been a contributor. If the pump wasn't able to keep up on boost, it would cause weak mixture and cut boost. The earth wire was damaged where it enters the plug. I will report back after some tests
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I did the fuel pump relay mod today.
The only difference from the very helpful guide on the forum is that I ran new cables all the way to the pump connector. I didn’t like the look of the plug and wanted new wire all the way.
The plug

New connectors. I’ve use insulated female spades here with adhesive backed heat shrink.

The relay slots into one of the spare holes under the seat.

All wrapped up in new tessa and after double checking all my connections, car started to test.
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Looks excellent Dave.
You been washed away yet? Bit rough in your neck of the woods looking at the news.Leave a comment:
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My side trims are corroded and looking rough.

The front ones are very easy to remove. Two screws top and two bottom. The rears are a little more difficult, with three rivets. I carefully drilled them out with 3.5mm drill.

The front trims are steel. The rear are aluminium. I had to use a special primer for the aluminium.

They were painted last week when it was sunny.
I took the opportunity to clean the window seals out really well. They were very grubby.

I used stainless steel rivets taking care not to damage my new paint.

All done.
You may be wondering why my back seat is up and the wires exposed. I’m in the process of fitting a relay on the fuel pump.
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Need to do the same to my RS2.

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