Dahlback in Sweden list them as beeing the same.
-
Volcano
My only concern is the 'woodruf' key position in yours?
Does it slide in the slot machined in your sprockets and settle where it can?
I'll still post some piccies tonite to try to explain my ramblings
Nice job anyhow.
Carlos.
On the look out for less bits for my s2 saloon project. Now supporting myself by shooting for my food. www.airgunforum.co.ukComment
-
i know what you mean. yes the key slides in and you have to cut a little bit off and tap it for a tight fit .
when the gear cutter saw the oem one he said it was weak .i know you are meant to change it everytime you change the belt but it is still only cast and the key is very weak .i experimented on my own car first and around 9 months later it still seems ok .Comment
-
Piccies.
The front one is the 7A, the shoulder is about 8mm high.
The one in the background is from a q sport
, the soulder is about 4.5mm high.
This would move the 'fixed' key on the original sprocket depending on the pulley fitted...ABY's are as the short pulley eg.4.5mm, dont know about 3B's.
Since your key slides we shouldn't have to worry about the position in the slot on the crank or if the slot is machined differently on the various engines.
HTH.
Carlos.
On the look out for less bits for my s2 saloon project. Now supporting myself by shooting for my food. www.airgunforum.co.ukComment
-
the woodruf key on the sprocket slides into the crank so different pullys shouldn't make too much difference .The front one is the 7A, the shoulder is about 8mm high.
The one in the background is from a q sport, the soulder is about 4.5mm high.
This would move the 'fixed' key on the original sprocket depending on the pulley fitted...ABY's are as the short pulley eg.4.5mm, dont know about 3B's.
Since your key slides we shouldn't have to worry about the position in the slot on the crank or if the slot is machined differently on the various engines.
HTH.Comment
-
4 of these pullys might be ready this weekComment
-
Dumb question....but what is the advantage of these over OEM? Is it just that they don't need to be changed again?
Cheers n
Si95 ABY S2 Coupe - Ragusa Green
Subtle mods here and there
2011 A5 3.0 TDi - Lava Grey
With every option available
(except a towball)Comment
-
hpmuirt, oem tend to crack @ high revs, and some ++bhp and that we dont want
One thing i've learned we are way behind the Scandinavians!Comment
-
that was my question as well.
it really depends on what hp you are aiming and how the power is delivered.
i had a friend who had an incident after he was making 550+whp on his RS2
really,if you get one of these,you would still need to replace them in the next cambelt,right?Comment
-
As a rule the main reason why the OEM breaks is because they are not properly torqued up or due to a badly perished rubber on the pulley making it oscillateAelredComment
-
The Original is made of a very soft and weak metal.
Good for standard and mildly modified applications.
But once its been used and removed, it seems to loose the tightness of the "Fitt" it was meant to have. This is not good for high HP applications.
Some Pictures of the damaged pulley from my car. GT3076 maybe 600Nm torque ..
It bent the valves as well.
Note that when the pulley slipped it scoured and lost some of its metal that ended up on the crank. I had to rub the crank down with some fine sandpaper b4 fitting my own crank pulley.
http://members.audiclubsa.org.za/d/1...rankPulley.jpg
S2 Coupe fully built.
10.9 1/4mile 0-100 in 3.5secs
Precision 6262 turbo
The Green MonsterComment
-
i had mine break into 3 pieces and damaged all 10 inlet valves plus some guides .
the whole point of having one of these is that when you change your timing belt again you can check and replace only the woodruff key which is seperate to the pully itself
( hopefully even that might not need doing )
not like the original one .the material is better than the cast oem one .Comment
Comment