Fluidampr Crankshaft Damper - All I5

[Tom_]

Error404 Its the same for diesel engines? Or if you change piston/rod , then you need to rebalancing whole rotation assembly?

[Error404]

You don’t need to balance another OEM part - they are designed & manufactured to be within tolerance.
At the factory they did not individually balance each and every bottom end, the individual components themselves are designed and manufactured to be part of an externally balanced assembly. This is why you can buy & fit the components individually as a spare part - damper, pulley, crank, rod, piston, pin, rings, big end bearings, flywheel etc

Edit:
It’s because Issam’s damper is a totally different design with different geometry and most importantly mass-centring, this is why you cannot just fit & forget - because is it not matched to the balance tolerances of the OEM part.
Hope that helps.

[Chris5044]

Don’t forget to sell me your old one Chris

Hey Error! don't worry I havent forgotten! my main mission is to get S2 back on road and to the ring in just under 2 weeks! , now my rear caliper bleed nipples are seized for the bleeding of the brakes argh!!! have got a lot of work on next week. I'll deffo get it over to you once the new one is on and working first.

I had a call from a machine shop and he said even fitting a second hand one won't be balanced and he said I should take the 2nd hand one along with my one to him asap and see if he can alter the new one to match the balancing of my old one. So for me thats a drive to norfolk 2hrs - then a drive to nswindon .. then back to norfolk , then the rest of the car to be tended to. Am I jumping through so many hoops or what???? my money is flying out the door :/ there goes my deposit for a house.

[Error404]

Don’t forget to sell me your old one Chris

[Chris5044]

I have phoned a balancing machine shop and they have said that they suggest I buy a second hand unit. It could still fail, but the chances are lower. If I run the old one it is likely to fail. If I fit the new fluidamper It wont be balanced and they said that could fail also.

That was their advice. If I run this for 1 - 2 years as I was thinking, then be the time to engine out, balance (rebuild at same time - plus mods time).

[SteveH]

I don't know of anyone who repairs these units. I would stick with your stock item for the trip and use the Fluid damper when you get back. The old one isn't likely to totally fail. I don't think I've ever heard of one falling to bits. I think this is the only realistic option given your timescales.

[Chris5044]

What's wrong with your standard front pulley? I'd keep it standard for your trip and get this done after.

Yes good idea! My old one the rubber is coming away and separating.
another option is buy another standard aby damper, is this bolt on without balancing? N take this for trip.

Or send mine off for repair, anyone know any specialists? Worth it?

[SteveH]

What's wrong with your standard front pulley? I'd keep it standard for your trip and get this done after.

[Chris5044]

[fish]

To balance your engine it needs to be totaly stripped down. To get it out, stripped down, find someone to balance it, re assemble (with new rings and bearings and what not) get it back inand running within a week is stretching it a bit i would think...

[tango123]

within 1 week?? I think you'll need Sooty's wand!!

[Chris5044]

Anyone know any balancing shops that are good? can i get this done within 1 week? is this possible? this is going to screw my nurburgring trip :/

[Chris5044]

Your engine is not zero balanced as standard. You should not fit this and hope it will be OK. The whole crank assembly including pistons, rods, etc should be stripped out of the engine and sent for balancing requesting zero balance. This will involve removing material from the crank. As previously mentioned, this isn't a bolt on replacement item. It's not a disclaimer from the vendor, but a simple requirement for this to work on the I5 engine.

hmmm

[SteveH]

Your engine is not zero balanced as standard. You should not fit this and hope it will be OK. The whole crank assembly including pistons, rods, etc should be stripped out of the engine and sent for balancing requesting zero balance. This will involve removing material from the crank. As previously mentioned, this isn't a bolt on replacement item. It's not a disclaimer from the vendor, but a simple requirement for this to work on the I5 engine.

[Chris5044]

From the website, this isn't a bolt on replacement.

Special notes (Hardware & Balancing): Install hardware per OEM specifications.
1. The ADU/ABY (and other older inline-5) engines are balanced as a complete rotating assembly. We do not recommend installing this product on a motor currently in a vehicle. The rotating assembly must first be zero balanced and then the Fluidampr can be installed. Failure to follow this instruction will result in potential catastrophic engine failure or at minimum extreme cabin vibrations. Please seek the assistance of Jeff Garner’s engine building services or your local machinist before purchasing.

Yes I hear this, this is like a disclaimer to cover themselves. I think I have heard of people from word of mouth running them without a balance.
I would of course like to balance it. Though surely this was built from the specs of the original unit so would be close to the fit of the original right? It will only be running around 300bhp.

If a balance can be quick and affordable I may do this. (i need to get this ready for the nurburgring trip in a few weeks ahhhh...