From the website, this isn't a bolt on replacement.
Special notes (Hardware & Balancing): Install hardware per OEM specifications.
1. The ADU/ABY (and other older inline-5) engines are balanced as a complete rotating assembly. We do not recommend installing this product on a motor currently in a vehicle. The rotating assembly must first be zero balanced and then the Fluidampr can be installed. Failure to follow this instruction will result in potential catastrophic engine failure or at minimum extreme cabin vibrations. Please seek the assistance of Jeff Garner’s engine building services or your local machinist before purchasing.
Fluidampr Crankshaft Damper - All I5
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Thank you! what amazing information!! So greatful you just shared this!Well, the ARP style bolt normally gets fitted with 'special' ARP lube ( a thin molybdenum grease) on the thread, and under the head of the bolt.
Torque is a measure of turning force, so when the bolt is lubed up properly, the turning force required to get to the specified clamping force is reduced, as well as being more consistent, certainly better than trying to fit it with bits fo grit still in the threads
Also, as the ARP bolt is not a stretch it will clamp things up to a higher force than a stretch bolt at the same torque setting. The old bolt is a stretch bolt... so some of the clamping force is taken up by the fact the bolt has stretched! Therefore you need a higher turning torque to get the right clamp force.
Thank you
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Well, the ARP style bolt normally gets fitted with 'special' ARP lube ( a thin molybdenum grease) on the thread, and under the head of the bolt.
Torque is a measure of turning force, so when the bolt is lubed up properly, the turning force required to get to the specified clamping force is reduced, as well as being more consistent, certainly better than trying to fit it with bits fo grit still in the threads
Also, as the ARP bolt is not a stretch it will clamp things up to a higher force than a stretch bolt at the same torque setting. The old bolt is a stretch bolt... so some of the clamping force is taken up by the fact the bolt has stretched! Therefore you need a higher turning torque to get the right clamp force.
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In response: My engine isnt balanced as far as I know or it was balanced with the old unit. Though bolting it on should be fine and in time i will look at balancing it when I decide to go deeper into mods and an engine re-build. (would this be ok? what do you guys think or know? I think these things do such an amazing job I have heard). - or am I mistaken?
** I also found out that the new ARP bolt coming is deffo 350NM and it can be used many times as opposed to the old stretch bolt and thus should be torqued to 350NM for the new fitment.
** The locking tools also might not fit correctly and I was told that either create a new one or retrofit the old locking tool to fit the new damper.
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Just an update, Tractor Dave's damper is the ABY one. :/ hmmm will get answers and post here x. Will need a sollution to locking this off.Leave a comment:
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Also can anyone answer this please? the crank bolt is to be torqued to 450NM, but The ARP bolt that comes with this unit was stated 350NM, which NM is the correct one to use? 100NM is a big difference.Leave a comment:
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Is this the AAN version or Aby? I think the damper was designed to be used with the locking device, as that was noted in the build of the original design??Leave a comment:
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Thank you Issam! I have yet to get to the workshop, some things came up. I will report my findings! I hope the crank lock tool fits!
and will let people know of the import charges.
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Yes I would beif you are interested in taking Tractor Dave's unit , it is available.Leave a comment:
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Mine arrived today! Looks flawless.
Thanks a ton for seeing this through.Leave a comment:
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I have purchased a unit a couple of days ago via the website but not heard anything?Leave a comment:

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