Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V - Czech Republic

[Tom_]

Today I deleted the second part of thé stock battery box. IT holds like hell especially in that corner where you can't get with anything. No drill. No grinder. But Its done. Also battery is relocated in thé trunk with a new holder. Waiting for some battery lugs to crimp on the wire. Wire is through whole car. Have to buy a two stud terminal block .

Odesláno z mého ASUS_X00QD pomocí Tapatalk

[Tom_]

Yes Next week hopefully I will start on the engine bay. I Will be posting pictures of the progress.

[Tractor Dave]

Sandblasting is good but honestly, I do not want the have a full interior with sand so have to go with another route instead of sandblasting.

Wire wheel in grinder then

[Tom_]

Sandblasting is good but honestly, I do not want the have a full interior with sand so have to go with another route instead of sandblasting.

[Tractor Dave]

I haven't tried that but Wurth is normally good stuff. I use the Bilt stuff but you need to be very careful you don't get it too thick or it tends to flake off. Some use the converter then wire brush again so the converter is only in the pitting. Sand blasting gets into the pitting and gives 100% rust free surface ready for paint.

[Tom_]

Thanks, Dave, I will look at the products you mentioned. One question, on the bare metal I was thinking of using some Wurth Rust converter to seal the bare metal. What do you think? As i am sure there will be spots where i dont get with grind or with anything different.

[Tractor Dave]

Lots of different opinions on bare metal prep but after trying lots of different products my current favourites are, Novol Protect epoxy, Bilt Hamber electrox and epoxy, Bilt Hamber seam sealer. The main thing is to get all the rust off and have really clean bare metal to paint and in warm dry conditions.

[Tom_]

I started to rewire the wire battery initially, as the battery will be relocated to the trunk.
For the main ground wire and feed wire I will use a 70mm2 wire, just to be safe. On the + feed I will also use a 200Amp circuit breaker.
In the engine bay, there will be one terminal block (busbar) for the distribution of the positive feed to the engine bay/fuse box.
Also, I will drill out the stock radiator bracket as mine is looking much worst than the "new one". I waiting for the strut mount brackets (Thanks Rik) and weld everything while everything is ready.
After that, I will start to prepare the engine bay for the paint. Honestly, this will be a Pita job but has to be done before the engine swap. Any tips for preparing or products use on bare metal, bondo?
Thanks

[Tom_]

Yes, they are not expensive. These could be just welded on the stock tower?

[rxl]

they are cheap and easy to get and also looks stockisch

[Tom_]

Honestly the stock looking strut brace bracket isn't the best look :/

[Tractor Dave]

B4 s2

Brackets were still on Audi Tradition when I looked last.

[Tom_]

Dave, which version of the strut bar/mount do you have?

[Tractor Dave]

I had to weld mine. Use good quality zinc paint then epoxy and no rust at all.

[Tom_]

Initially, I was thinking about a strut bar, but once you weld that metal, there is a bigger chance of gettin' these spots rusted. I like strut bar which are not welded but mounted on the upper mount, but Audi doesn't have a good style for that (one-nut style).