Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V - Czech Republic
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Fuel tank fittings rewelded to an8 feed and return with some ss piping inside tank. I also slowly start heatshrinking my engine wiring. -
Yesterday, I finally welded the merge collector. It came up pretty nice even though it was a long time since I welded last time. The next job is to make the manifold. Have to buy some kind of support for the turbo to keep it at the height I need. It is almost impossible to hold the turbo there with my bare hands for more than a few minutes
I am also waiting for some new stock connectors and also for crimping tool for Deutsch connectors which I will be using.
To be honest I hate the small engine bay the Coupe has, there is no room at all
and made a new manifold make it even harder as everything is really tight,but will see how it ends up.
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I started to place the wires where they should be approximately. I immediately marked them so that I know when I will crimp them, which is which. It's quite a long job, but somehow I enjoy it. I hope that everything will be ok next time and that the rear pins/wires will not be swapped
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Thanks Brent. Exactly, i have to make custom pressure hoses. But shouldnt be such a problem. I will make a two piece route to keep mounting/removing much easier.Leave a comment:
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Looks nice and tidy Tom. I haven't read up on the Volvo EPS...do you have to make custom pressure hoses?Leave a comment:
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So 12v from the battery is connected to the firewall terminal, and from there it goes to the fuse box, starter, and to Volvo EPS. Also fitted ground wire for EPS to the engine mount. Now have to wait for a few bits. Then hopefully I will start making a new turbo manifold and piping and then cut the wire to lenght and crimp the ends.Leave a comment:
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In the 90s Czech government wanted people to stop buying cars from abroad so the only way was to use some different documents from another car registered here in Czech Republic and the “new” vin code was stamped on the strut tower. I have original documents from German as well… yeah so a ****** call from government and they keep trying to kill our passion as well.Last edited by Tom_; 11 January 2024, 05:26.Leave a comment:
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Interesting. It has the original VIN location, that seems to have some kind of paint partly over it.
Maybe it has been remarked somewhere locally, for what ever reason?Leave a comment:
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I believed I knew near-everything about these cars. First time I've ever seen VIN stamped on strut tower instead of the firewall. Just noticed today on photos.Leave a comment:
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Hi mate, Thanks..I routed the brake lines like stock so that the new adjustable valve is adjusted before it enters into the ABS. It will need to decrease the pressure to almost zero and after that start adjusting.Leave a comment:
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Tom,
Re: "does someone know the correct routing of the brake lines...(re: brake bias valve)?" I have not done this but saw that Mance did this w/his famous 12v 90. He simply replaced the stock bias unit w/an adjustable Tilton unit in the original's location (i.e.: no change to the stock plumbing layout: M/C > ABS > BBV > Rr. brks.). But I've also read that Tilton doesn't recommend their units be used w/ABS. Mance's car (a B4) has slightly different ABS equipment than yours, however FWIW I'll try to find some photos to post. I read on other forum's that folks use OEM non-adjustable BBVs (because they are ABS tolerant?) from the same marque but various models to work w/ABS and get different but always less than w/no BBV; rear braking.
VAPs ABS & Adjustable BBV in place of the OEM BV.png VAPs BBV close-up.pngLast edited by Lago Blue; 7 January 2024, 02:28.Leave a comment:
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