Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V - Czech Republic

[K Simmonds]

Nice to see it coming together Tom.

I made a custom snub mount bracket almost identical to yours only for the stock cross member, to make it a nice snug fit with a poly-bush, it helped to stop the engine moving forwards under braking and reduced the drive-line shunt a little.

Plus it stops the front pulley from damaging the inter-cooler on a stock car, I've kept it to use on my RS2 which I have the joyous task of putting a cam-belt on soon as the one on there is probably 20 years old now, though it actually looks fine as it's only done about 10K miles.

I really hope that K-Seal works as well for you as it did for me!

[Tom_]

custom snub mount bracket with poly bushing

[Tom_]

I started to finish my crossbar as yesterday a new bigger oil cooler arrived (much bigger) and also fit my poly snub mount with custom made bracket. Everything seems nice and fits nicely, we will see how it goes after the welding
I also started modifying the IC outlets/inlets as there will be HD clamps for quick release and I also have to finish IC piping.
Still, plenty things need to be done, but I am happy so far that the project is moving, slowly, but moving.

[Tom_]

Thanks Brent, yeah, i am happy as well hopefully it will last forever

[jbrentd]

Glad to hear the K-seal worked for you!

[Tom_]

Thanks mate appreciate it. Yes, I will keep that other half. hopefully, I won't need it Now I can move on to bleeding all the brakes/abs stuff, and also to tight the brake fittings, mainly on ABS

[K Simmonds]

That's great news Tom, I'm really pleased it's looks like it's worked for you.

There's certainly no point adding any more if it's stopped leaking, it should now be permanently fixed all being well.

You could perhaps keep the other half a bottle in the tool kit boot of whatever other car you drive, you never know, it might save you from being stranded by the side of the road by something like a pin holed radiator etc.

[Tom_]

It seems the leak is sealed for now. I put half bottle into the coolant and after few heatcycles , there isnt any leak looks like really good stuff which works. Thanks for the tip. I will keep that other half . There is half of bottle circling inside so i think it wont need other half. But better to keep it

[K Simmonds]

There are a plenty of quality oils on market. I did complete rebuild with new customs rods and pistons, etc…
tomorrow i will put that k seal into the coolant so hopefully it will help.

There are indeed and as I said a lot of it come's down to personal choice.

I have my fingers crossed for you, that K-Seal is the best coolant leak sealant I've used and given the vast amount of work involved in pulling the engine out and to bit's again to have it re-welded then decked yet again it has to be worth a shot.

I don't normally like using any extra additive's in any of today's oil's and coolants, good quality products will be miles ahead of anything that was on the market back in the 1980/90's but in certain cases one must make exceptions.

[Tom_]

There are a plenty of quality oils on market. I did complete rebuild with new customs rods and pistons, etc…
tomorrow i will put that k seal into the coolant so hopefully it will help.

[K Simmonds]

Breaking in oil's is a massive can of worms, there's so many different opinions regarding it make's my head hurt.

For the last engine I built with fresh bore's and ring's I used Motul's mineral 10W40 breaking in oil. That was in an 8V MK2 Golf GTI with a MK3 2.0 bottom end bored to to first oversize using OE oversize pistons and rings and ported big valve head for a rally car. It's what the customer wanted me to use and it did the job just fine, I liked the product so I'd use it again.

That's also probably what I'd use in a freshly built stock S2 engine as you've got remember that block and piston/ring design goes right back to the 1970's as does the Golf engine I mentioned above, they're very closely related. Sure, the capacity's changed over the years and the ring material was probably updated a little by the 1990's but we're still talking about pretty old technology.

However, if it was something with modern aftermarket piston's and ring's I'd most like go with what the ring manufacturer recommended, that's if they offer a recommendation. Or if I was building up a freshly built post 2000 designed engine I'd probably go with what you've used.

I should mention I've never actually fully rebuilt an S2 engine, the farthest I've ever gotten with old Audi five cylinder's is rebuilding a couple of heads with new guides and stem seals and that does not require a breaking oil, nor would change the shells in the bottom end.

The only time one use's a breaking in oil is when you have freshly honed bores and new rings.

I'm not for a moment saying the Amsoil was the wrong choice. It doesn't really matter if it's mineral or synthetic, most importantly it must have high levels of Zinc and Phosphorous, with very little to no Molybdenum or detergents.

Unless the car is on road or a dyno you can't put a load on it, all you can do is change the speed it's spinning at, as long as you fluctuated the RPM during that critical first 30 minuets you should be okay. You have to think of seating piston rings as the final stage of the machining process and it's really important the engine is not left at any single speed for more than a few min's.

14.7 AFR is fine, no need to lean it out, that will not cause bore washing.

I use Fuch's Titan 10W50 in anything I own that's turbocharged but the Ravenol oil 10W50 you have is probably just as good, again that's something down to personal choice.

[Tom_]

It goes exactly from that spot where it was welded, but you cant be sure with anything with this type of project. Will se once i remove that breaking oil
I could easily change afr to what i want, so not problem to run it leaner and prevent washing oil film.
That amsoil wasnt cheap and i hope it will help with bedding the rings. The engine ran for at least 30 mins. Mostly without load but reving the engine slighlty.
Have prepared ravenol oil 10w50 after this breakin oil.
what mineral oil do you using for breaking?

[K Simmonds]

I've just looked up and spent a bit of time reading about Amsoil breaking in oil, it look's like very good stuff, though it's not a product I've personally used before, it's bloody expensive so I hope you get what what pay for!

I see your conundrum, how long has the engine already been run for with the breaking in oil and am guessing you have the synthetic SAE 30 stuff in the there?

As you probably know opinions vary on what is the best oil to use for breaking in. Personally I use a mineral based oil, but that is my preference and what I was taught to use by old school mechanics; I'm not saying what your using is wrong.

What is generally accepted is on first start the engine needs to be revved at a fast idle, between 1300-2000 rpm max and not at a constant speed, the rpm should be carefully fluctuated.

A Llamda of 1 and AFR of 14.7 is perfect as you probably already know.

I wouldn't worry too much about the oil pressure being around 1 bar at hot idle at this stage, as long as it pick's up as soon as you bring the rev's up to say 1500 rpm it's okay.

It's obviously vitally important that no coolant is making it's way into the oil. So are you sure the leak is just external where the extra material was added to the block?

[Tom_]

Yes, its in breaking stage and there is amsoil breaking oil.
Lambda is 1 (14,7:1). The car is in the garage but at the door side, and i have always open doors to keep venting the exhaust fumes.
the problem on idling is that after the oil gets up to temp 70 deg its quite thin and the pressure on idle is around 1-1,2 bar.

thanks Brent, i hope so

[jbrentd]

Hoping that K-Seal will work its magic on the pesky leak!