Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V - Czech Republic

[Tom_]

Thanks for the tip Rik

[rxl]

you can use b4 or later coupe washer tank as it uses 2 pumps. one for headlights and other windscreen.

[Tom_]

The diamond washer is fitted, and the belt is in the correct position. Finally.Now have to fit the fenders and make some adapters from the headlight washer tank to the windscreen washer jets, as I removed the engine bay washer tank.
Also, have to isolate the rest of the exhaust with heat wrap. Downpipe is wrapped, but the rest not

[Tom_]

So I got a diamond washer, Thanks to Rik rxl . Thanks, buddy, appreciate that.
This week I will put that washer on and hopefully it will clear the gap. Also I started to remove that old sticky foam from doorboards. Finally no sticky foam will falls down

[Tom_]

[Tom_]

The linkage screw was loose. Now its all good. First and second gear could be put Much better to drive start with first two gears

The cam cover seal its little bit wet , so I guess I have to buy another cam cover seal and maybe put some RTV onto the corners to help to seal it fully or any tip how to solve it without using RTV?

Also noticed that the timing belt is leaned inward close to the cam cover... It's like hanging a few mm from the cam adjustable pulley? Any ideas what the root cause is? I Will take a pics of how its aligned at water pump, belt pulley, adjustable cam gear.
As the car is stroker (diesel engine block) with 7A harmonic damper, there wasn't a diamond washer, so not sure if I need a one now as its not aligned.



Some really short video of car/sound

https://www.facebook.com/messenger_media/?attachment_id=713545111236527&message_id=mid.%24c AAAAADChn5ycqFvr3GWdxabJNySj&thread_id=1673931712

[Tractor Dave]

I believe adjustment is the same for both. Get it up in the air so you have access to the main bolt under the gear lever. Place gearbox in neutral. Loosen the bolt. Get someone in the car to hold the gear lever in the exact centre position. Tighten bolt.

[Tom_]

Yesterday I did the first 3 km and I am absolutely blown away by the sound of the engine, turbo, exhaust . What a feeling.
I am slightly proud of myself for getting this far. The main problem was that I couldn't engage first and second gear, only third, but I lived in the domain that it was first, and while driving I thought it was strange that first gear was spinning at 2800 rpm at 50 km/h
So I know that I have to solve the rod from the gear lever to the gearbox. I have an 01A 5-speed gearbox. Another thing I have to solve is the loose upper bearing, the cut-out nut that holds the upper bearing.
As soon as I solve these two things, I will try to drive something more and collect some data from the log and we will see. I'm still worried that the oil valve cover is leaking a little, even though it's brand new, and also two fittings for the oil cooler and turbo feed, the fitting is leaking slightly.
Overall, I'm really glad that I drove the car at all after 2 and a half years and a complete rebuild of the engine, electrics and other things.
Next time, I will make some short video .

Edit: Does someone has a 5spd 01A gearbox manual? Cant find any info in my manual regarding adjusting the gearbox linkage.

[Tom_]

I will adjust the length of that master cylinder rod/clevis...It will make a longer stroke, which should lead to have that bite more in the middle of the pedal movement.

[Tractor Dave]

Hopefully you can sort. Leaving it as is will soon burn the clutch out

[Tom_]

That slave is also perfect for a single mass flywheel as well. I think there won't be any different lengths amongst part makers with the same OEM part number, just one length.

[Tractor Dave]

That slave is perfect for standard dual mass flywheel and sachs original clutch. Now you have swapped those bits out it may not be the correct length anymore.

[Tom_]

The slave cylinder is a Sachs one (6283 001 031). I buy that one because of recommendations. So I don't think so the rod will be longer.

[newsh]

Maybe pull the slave cylinder and take a measurement to see if the rod is too long. You should have quite a lot of pedal movement before the clutch releases.

[Tom_]

Well done to you as well
Could be, but I set the height difference between brake pedal and clutch pedal (+10mm higher) accordingly to bentley manual. Not sure If its good as there arent plenty stock parts left but I did it, so brake pedal is approx 10mm lower than clutch pedal.