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Honestly, dont know but I want to make my own manifold with some features and egt bungs as well. So if this doesnt clear thé bonnet, no problem, but I am curious too
Folks, does someone changed the fuel lines inside the fuel tank? Currently, I am thinking of changing stock fuel lines under the car with AN8 feed and AN6 return, but I think that the fuel lines inside the fuel tank are a "weak" spot. I am not sure how it looks inside the Coupe tank or if there is some pipe with fittings that are under the car. Only I can see is those fittings under the car.
Detailed pictures of the pipes in tank will be highly appreciated
I am using the stock aby tank/pipes/pump. Then running to a surge tank that can hold 2 pumps (will start off with one 525 LPH pump inside), that then runs AN-8 12.7mm line to the fuel rail.
An8 fuel feed Is in place. An6 return Will be put there this week. I already start the assembly thé engine bay. Yesterday I put a Phaeton dual booster but IT won't fit there because the plastic collar od Is bigger than od of the firewall. TDI pedal box is on thé place with a modified throttle pedal.
I 3D printed the Fuel Lines brackets And fit there perfectly.
Verkline engine mounts finally arrived. Have to make a washer to make the engine lower to clearance between the engine and the hood. Also, I have 5 egt sensors with stainless pipes. I want to go with 38mm of fór turbo manifold.
A refurbed steering rack is installed with new rods and joints. Finally, the pedal box is fitted and the throttle pedal is in good position. Dual stage vacuum booster is installed together with an aftermarket Brake bias valve for the rear brakes, but does someone know the correct routing of the brake lines from master cylinder should be routed and connected to the ABS and adjustable valve?
Egt sensors and bungs are placed . The wiring is also in the engine bay. I made ecu mount on the stock locations. Now i have to make a new tie rod rubber doors and put new fuel line holders in place
It's happening. The engine is mounted and looks fabulous. Another ton of work has to be done, but I am really happy that the engine is inside. Have to find the sweet spot for Volvo EPS, also the radiator is a little big bigger, so has to tilt a little. Hopefully, everything will fit.
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Thanks, Brent. It looks like the forum is almost dead these days But some updates anyway.
1) I got a smaller turbine housing for my turbo, so now I am waiting for new turbo inlet /outlet flanges after I start making my custom turbo manifold, hopefully next week
2)I made a bracket for Volvo EPS
3) I get a SPAL rad fan as I don't have much space behind the rad, so I will fit that rad
Once these main jobs will be done, I will start making new engine harness.
Re: "does someone know the correct routing of the brake lines...(re: brake bias valve)?" I have not done this but saw that Mance did this w/his famous 12v 90. He simply replaced the stock bias unit w/an adjustable Tilton unit in the original's location (i.e.: no change to the stock plumbing layout: M/C > ABS > BBV > Rr. brks.). But I've also read that Tilton doesn't recommend their units be used w/ABS. Mance's car (a B4) has slightly different ABS equipment than yours, however FWIW I'll try to find some photos to post. I read on other forum's that folks use OEM non-adjustable BBVs (because they are ABS tolerant?) from the same marque but various models to work w/ABS and get different but always less than w/no BBV; rear braking.
Hi mate, Thanks..I routed the brake lines like stock so that the new adjustable valve is adjusted before it enters into the ABS. It will need to decrease the pressure to almost zero and after that start adjusting.
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