RichLV's UrS4

[hunker7]

Yep, it does not look fun. Alright I've changed my mind. Let's fix the old junker.

Hunker, RS6 C5 is V8 BiT, engine code BCY, 450 HP.

Still need advice on turbos though.

Fair enough, I was certain it's NA V8 Now that I know it's turbocharged I want it even more

[quattrostyle]

Still need advice on turbos though.

I would think it is not hard to find a turbo in used but good condition on here?

[RichLV]

My classic URS4

Or maybe opt for a S6 C5... Can be gotten with a manual. 4.2 NA is probably the most reliable thing Audi has ever created. 340 HP should be enough. Not tunable without big mods though.

@quattrostyle, I meant advice on turbo upgrades. Either get a GT2871/KKK hybrid or opt for an RS2 K24-7200. Hybrid would be more sensible because Garrett parts can be easily sourced, which cannot be said for the old K24's. But that damn hybrid kit costs 1800$ on 034, and we have horrible taxes for importing stuff outside EU (+21%). I can get a new authentic RS2 turbo for like 1200 eur, but it's old in case parts are needed.

What about K24-7400 from a Volvo, is it a bolt on operation?

[quattrostyle]

Maybe you will find the info you need in this thread http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74331

[RichLV]

How do you experienced people choose rods for your 20v miracle? I'm thinking maybe get a set of a bit beefier rods, just in case. Around 400HP and 550NM torque target.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+rods&_sacat=0
First 3 listings are pretty nice. Price is affordable and it's in Germany so no additional taxes. What's the difference between I beam, H beam and X beam rods?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RichLV]

That K24-7400 got me interested. I've been digging the web for some definitive information but I cannot find anything. So the questions are:
1) What figures can it make (with uprated rods)?
2) How can it be fit? Will a K26 housing from an old 10VT fit it? What's with the blocking plate on the compressor housing?

[UrS4boy]

2) What's with the blocking plate on the compressor housing?

REF: http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpos...1&postcount=78

RS2 K24-7200 on the left, Volvo K24-7400 on the right (with integral wastegate, etc)





Photos courtesy of Ruffiano.

[RichLV]

Thanks Dave. I've seen these but the question was whether the plate can be bought somewhere or it has to be fabbed up?

[RichLV]

My backup ride while the big one is on maintenance mode.

[RichLV]

Went to the garage, to take the turbo off. This is what I found:

Compressor wheel change inevitable. Turbine wheel fine though. It has a nasty radial movement, very nasty. And a barely noticable axial movement.


Hotside looks strange...

Also took off my fuel rail. Somehow people manage to even break those...

I have a replacement rail ready.

[RichLV]

While waiting for the replacement turbo I changed the action plan for my UrS. I have bad oil pressure when the car heats up, only 0.9 bar on idle, and barely over 2 when at 2000rpm. With that pressure I'm gonna kill another turbo and the engine in general. So I'm starting to rebuild it. I already found an assembled bottom end, gonna get it and start working on the engine.

[macspring]

Would agree with your plan.

Assuming you tear down the current tired engine, if would be interesting to see what is the cause of the low ol pressure, assuming it is not a little bit of everything.

Good luck on the bread and water for the next while.

[RichLV]

It's either the oil pump (which I highly doubt) or the bearings. Most likely the bearings as the pressure drops a lot when car gets hot. Dude who I bought it from probably lied about them being replaced. I'm suspecting that's why it has a 3B block, they killed the original one & strapped on a tired 3B just the sell the car.

I'm gonna get the head off today, to see if I need to look for a 7A.

Yeah, it's gonna milk money like a motherf**ker.

[RichLV]

So I went and took off the head.


^ this is how my pistons look like. The car has been on a pretty generous oil diet.


^ manifold cracked in one of the usual places. Doesn't seem to be going outside.




^ and I've got a unicorn you guys! Crackless head. It's a very early head, 1992, engine build 3390. Aaand it's crackless... Happy as hell... It has bumps and bruises and scratches on some of the surfaces inside, probably because someone used screwdrivers there. Two of the front valve cover bolts cannot be tightened, the thread has been stripped. Basically nothing major, all fixable.


^ only Cyl 3 has some sort of piece broken off. A very little piece. I think I shouldn't look for a new head just because of this one.


^ A piston close up.

The manifold will probably go into the bin or something, I'll fit the RS2 one. Cams are in very good shape. Though I will hunt for the 7A exhaust cam. Checked the cam pulley sprocket, all good.

Question. Can I stay with cylinder head bolts or should I get the ARP studs?

[BATCH]

Nice Car!