My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[Tractor Dave]

They go through the big seal under the tank.


At least they do on mine.


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[sal_s2]

Dave, do you have a pic of where the rear diff vacuum lines go through the floor into the car?

[Tractor Dave]

Thanks to another kind forum member the last subframe bush arrived and was duly fitted.
Then onto to engine replacement.
I used a plumb line to get the engine in roughly the right spot.


Then lots of wiggling and swearing. It's a blinking tight fit!



And with the gearbox balanced on the jack, I quickly got the subframe up to take the weight. Phew.


I'd like to say it went smoothly but it was quite a challenge on my own and one fuel line got a little damaged between the gearbox mount and the body. Took most of the afternoon but it's in now.


And these bits also got cleaned before the postie arrived.



This was damaged and not easy to repair as the metal is so thin.




So I cut a little repair patch, set the mig as low as it would go and very carefully welded it on.



After a clean it looks presentable. It's strong now which is the main thing.


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[Tractor Dave]

One of the air temp fitting holes thread had gone. I used a v coil insert. They are good quality.


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Fitted three of the four subframe bushes. I'm waiting for one more.


And the gearbox mounts which are new Meyle. New nuts and bolts of course.


And set the dizzy timing whilst engine is at tdc.




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[Tractor Dave]

New idler pulley arrived and was fitted.
This needs to be tapped into its housing using the central bush and not pulled in by the bolt.


Then I was able to fit the damper with a new bolt and fit the belt.
The timing marks are now much easier to see.




Then I pulled the plugs to make the engine easier to turn over. As it's sat for three years I put 10ml of redex in each cylinder to lubricate the bores and free up the rings.


Then turned the engine over a couple of times and double checked the timing marks. We are all good. I will torque up the damper bolt when the engine is in the car. Big boys toys required for that job.



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[Tractor Dave]

I gave the clutch slave a flush with some new brake fluid. What can out was not pretty so I decided to strip it.


Fortunately the S2 rebuild kit I happened to have was a perfect fit. After a good clean out and new seal it's like new.


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[Tractor Dave]

Anyone have a spare smaller subframe bush? Feb15898 is the Febi one. Everyone Seems to have sold out. I only need one.

[Tractor Dave]

And I couldn't see this mark at all. A clean up and some engineering paint has made it much clearer.



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[Tractor Dave]

The gearbox and engine are friends re united.


I was waiting for this pulley but it turned up like this.


Not very round.

Then I had to mow the blinking grass.


While it was nice and sunny I got a few more bits cleaned and painted.




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[Tractor Dave]

Wonder whats happend to that can gear? Looks like its been rubbing against something and has had a wallop right by the England stamp? As always Dave, top job!

It's been rubbing against the back cover. The cover was slightly bent so I fixed that. The marks are probably where someone used something inappropriate to hold it when removing before.

[fish]

Wonder whats happend to that can gear? Looks like its been rubbing against something and has had a wallop right by the England stamp? As always Dave, top job!

[Tractor Dave]

I didn't know some Audi parts were made in England!


It's coming back together


Oil pump has been replaced at some point.


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[Tractor Dave]

Thanks John.
Having used poly and oe, I do prefer the oe. Much easier to get the subframe aligned as well.
My nearest B&Q is 20 miles away

[John.]

And I forgot to say. When fitting the subframe bushes I used some sleeves made from concrete fixings. I couldn't get the right diameter stainless sleeve but these M12 are zinc plated and will do fine. You need to cut them to size.

Good to see the proper bushes being used, you'll be guaranteed they'll seat right compared to poly

B&Q do tubing by the way

Nice work.

[Tractor Dave]

I needed a better tool for holding the top pulley secure when torqued up and removal. I got thinking.












Fits perfectly and made from a trolley jack bar and some scrap metal that I had knocking about.

And I made this new heat shield ages ago.



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