Idle switch should be blue/brown and blue/yellow.
What year is your car?
I have original paper diagrams for the first few years with English notation, there are also diagrams on Phil’s site if you can get by in German.
My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration
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Cheers for the heads up. Everything was labelled there before I took apart but I will double check.Worth checking the throttle body switch wire colours against the wiring diagram, they need to be the right way round or it will ping like a church bell. Also there's a confusing extra plug by the bulkhead (at least there is on mine), use it by mistake for the enrichment valve and the full throttle enrichment doesn't work (more pinging!).
Where is the wiring diagram. You probably already sent me one
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Worth checking the throttle body switch wire colours against the wiring diagram, they need to be the right way round or it will ping like a church bell. Also there's a confusing extra plug by the bulkhead (at least there is on mine), use it by mistake for the enrichment valve and the full throttle enrichment doesn't work (more pinging!).Leave a comment:
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This is a proper restoration!! I’m amazed at all the heat shields especially your extra ones. I’m noting them all as I fear mine are lost.Leave a comment:
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So I made a little heat shield for the chassis leg next to the down pipe. There was nothing there before.

And I fitted a new adjuster for the alternator. The old one wasn't very well.

And the airbox bottom got a scrub before it was fitted. Stainless bolt and washers where possible.

Tomorrow I'm going to try and sort the ends of the fuel pipes that are currently just sticking up in the air under the bonnet. Worried grin.
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The seal was ok.I should really have used a seal kit but they have become expensive and only seem to be available from Germany. I cleaned up the faces and cleaned the seal in wd40. I just wanted to open it up to check it wasn't full of crud and to check the diaphragm was good. Looks like it's been overhauled before and was very clean inside.Leave a comment:
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Did you replace any of the seals in the warm up regulator or are they okay to open and just close up again?Warm up regulator got a quick check and clean up.




Pas reservoir got fitted.

Expansion bottle got a scrub.

Intercooler got fitted.

I cut some fabric heat shield material and fitted it to the subframe where the exhaust is very close. I used fibreglass resin and nothing else I know will withstand the temp there. Cling film wrap to hold it in place as it goes off.

Still lots to do. Puff puff!
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Warm up regulator got a quick check and clean up.




Pas reservoir got fitted.

Expansion bottle got a scrub.

Intercooler got fitted.

I cut some fabric heat shield material and fitted it to the subframe where the exhaust is very close. I used fibreglass resin and nothing else I know will withstand the temp there. Cling film wrap to hold it in place as it goes off.

Still lots to do. Puff puff!
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Yes. I was aware. Just not sure if I will get around to doing it. Still a big list of jobs to do and everything takes four times longer than you thought
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Dinitrol 447 is over paintable!
Used it a fair bit and rate it a lot. One project car has body colour over the top and the other has 4941 underbody wax over it - its black, self repairing and dries to a semi matt non sticky finish but can't be overpainted.
I love the dinitrol products and used the ML wax as a final step in the fight against corrosion. Its viscosity is a little like water and it creeps into seams, cracks, corners etc and then sets.
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