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This is coming along nicely Dave, great work. What's needed on the engine?
Thanks
Not much. It was totally overhauled about ten years ago by another forum member and not done many miles since. Just cambelt, water pump etc and I need to pull the clutch and check it's ok. I've already fitted new mounts.
I suppose you could use shouldered M10 10.9 grade bolts no issue. I used very thick stainless washers with them. Got those a couple of years back on a forum group buy. It's amazing what those 4 little m10 bolts hold up somehow.
Rear struts went in nicely. I found the easy way to do this is to drop the car on the ramp to the right height, put the driveshaft in the hub and the strut up in the housing supported underneath and slowly lower the car until the top bush is inside the housing. Then it sits there on its own while you get in the car to do up the top nut.
My home made top nut tool.
I did have a bolt shear when fitting the bottom tie rod ball joints. I think the threads were full on powder coat.
So I went around and cleaned all the threads up on both struts with a tap.
Abs sensors fitted with new plastic caps, brake shields and caliper carriers also fitted up with new bolts.
Engine moved to a better position so I can do some work on it.
I didn't get much done today as I had to go shopping.
I did get the driveshafts on the rear. They have new cv joints, inner and outer.
And I forgot to say. When fitting the subframe bushes I used some sleeves made from concrete fixings. I couldn't get the right diameter stainless sleeve but these M12 are zinc plated and will do fine. You need to cut them to size.
They are a snug fit and take up the play in the M12 hole in the bushes. M10 bushes are nla. This trick works on the rear of the S2 Coupe as well.
Just scratching my head now as to where to start on the engine.
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