My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[joss01]

Hi Dave you undone all 4 bolts that attach the subframe to the body disconnected all the the brake pipes and handbrake cables, all the suspension components etc. Have you attempted brute force it could be the addition of corrosion around the mounts holding the subframe there not that heavy i managed to get mine off with a pry bar.

[Tractor Dave]

Great tip! Thanks guys. Last driveshaft came off no problem today. Soaked it overnight in the described potion and it did the trick.
All the struts also removed today and put aside ready for refurbishment.
I now am having issues with the rear subframe. Two bolts sheared and two came out ok but the frame is still refusing to budge. Of course I had to lower the car down to the ground so that the subframe will not drop on my head and now its difficult to see what's still holding it there. The joys of working on old cars

[PRY4SNO]

50/50 ATF and thinners bears everything

This is correct!

I was going to post about the same thing and glad I read all the way through beforehand.

In refinery maintenance we use 50:50 ATF:Acetone when the off the shelf penetrating oils (typically Loctite 51221 or AeroKroil) aren't up to the task. Best part about the homebrew is that the surface tension is much higher so if you spray it upside down it doesn't drip off the threads as much.

[newsh]

50/50 ATF and thinners bears everything

[fish]

Best penetrating fluid i have ever used is Omega 636. Dont know if its available in the UK, but it is unreal how good it actualy is. WD40 and the likes are like squirting water on stuff in comparison

[Tractor Dave]

Damn. My last post is missing my solution! Anyway, here goes again.

Use PROPER penetrating fluid. Not wd40 as it just doesn't work in the same way.

I did: squirt, soak, squirt soak etc. Then (maybe even next day) rotate the flange that is holding on to your driveshaft and then tap with a light hammer as you rotate. Tap, squirt, tap, rotate squirt etc etc. The shocking action of the hammer finally let the fluid in and broke the grip and away it came. Prior to that, it was not going to let go and thay was after using stilsons, levers and lots of swearing.

Proper penetrating fluid is a revelation. I'd never been convinced up till this point and have used it ever since if I suspect trouble.

Good luck!

That method got the other side off. I will be a bit more persuasive tomorrow

[steve briance]

Damn. My last post is missing my solution! Anyway, here goes again.

Use PROPER penetrating fluid. Not wd40 as it just doesn't work in the same way.

I did: squirt, soak, squirt soak etc. Then (maybe even next day) rotate the flange that is holding on to your driveshaft and then tap with a light hammer as you rotate. Tap, squirt, tap, rotate squirt etc etc. The shocking action of the hammer finally let the fluid in and broke the grip and away it came. Prior to that, it was not going to let go and thay was after using stilsons, levers and lots of swearing.

Proper penetrating fluid is a revelation. I'd never been convinced up till this point and have used it ever since if I suspect trouble.

Good luck!

[joss01]

Managed to change 3 cv joints on axle stands bit akward but doable still not a nice job it is best done on a ramp

[steve briance]

I had a prop shaft cv joint stuck on my diff flange this year. It was less than ideal dealing with it on the floor, you should get on a lot better with your car in the air

[Tractor Dave]

I had a full day in the garage today and made good progress.

Exhaust off

Prop shaft off

All wishbones off (they are past it)

All abs sensors removed in one piece

Rear brake pipes calipers and carriers off

Rear tie rods off (one is dead)

Rear off side drive shaft off

Nearside driveshaft won't budge on the inner cv join. All the bolts removed, is it just bonded on with corrosion or is the diff lock holding it?

Subframe bolts at the rear cleaned and soaked in oil ready for a go at them tomorrow.

I still have lots to do. Every single bolt is fighting back and its all taking ages.

[Tractor Dave]

I suppose you can say you dont have your hands full. It looks scary but doable check your passenger door I have a good spare.

Cheers Joss. I will have a look when I call with you.

[joss01]

I suppose you can say you dont have your hands full. It looks scary but doable check your passenger door I have a good spare.

[Tractor Dave]

Slowly getting there. Rear is now nearly stripped.


The front drivers A pillar is the worst I have found so far.


The front wing bottoms came away in my hands 80% filler, 19% rust, 1% paint!


I'm on the lookout for repair panels if anyone has any knocking about

[pwbmotorsport]

Looks like a healthy project! Much less rusty than my '83 WX car!

[joss01]

Sorry Dave i thought comedy else was asking about the location of the slave cylinder. Access to the slave cylinder when the engine is out will make life easier but you may still have to remove the pedal box the bulkhead has a double skin making repairs to the matrix a slave a pig of a job.