My Ocianic Blue Ur restoration

[Tractor Dave]

Its all in the detail looking good Dave why did you decide on galvanising instead of powder coating?

As Steve says. It's the best way to protect long term.

[joss01]

Its all in the detail looking good Dave why did you decide on galvanising instead of powder coating?

[steve briance]

Galvanising is THE best way forward - deals with the inside where powder coat doesn't.

Had mine done this year and then I painted in epoxy. Can forget about that job now for the remaining life of the car / petrol supplies / me

[Tractor Dave]

Progress is slow due to life getting in the way. However, I had the rear subframe blasted and it wasn’t as bad as I thought. Just one small hole which can be welded. It’s off for galvanising shortly.



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[Tractor Dave]

congratulations got it out I forgot to mention I may have a good pair of engine mounts available

Thanks Joss. I will send you a PM

[joss01]

congratulations got it out I forgot to mention I may have a good pair of engine mounts available

[steve briance]

There is a drain hole as it was that and the bolt hole where my wire poked through but it drains right into the path of the subframe mount! I'd post a video of how much fell out of mine but don't know how to on this forum.

[Tractor Dave]

Happy days. Thats a relief not having to perform surgery!

I'm sure your plan for the underside includes the full treatment, back to metal, treat rust then apply epoxy/underbody stuff?

Don't forget to have a good root round inside the body where the captive subframe nut is...mine was literally full of dried mud. Heaven know's how this had affected the hidden metal but - a good poke out with a bent wire released a small pile of mud dust, blast with hose, dry and then plenty of dinitrol penetrating cavity wax pumped in there should have done the trick.

Yes, good plan. I don't know why they put a small drain hole there
Would it not be better to have sealed it all up?

[steve briance]

Happy days. Thats a relief not having to perform surgery!

I'm sure your plan for the underside includes the full treatment, back to metal, treat rust then apply epoxy/underbody stuff?

Don't forget to have a good root round inside the body where the captive subframe nut is...mine was literally full of dried mud. Heaven know's how this had affected the hidden metal but - a good poke out with a bent wire released a small pile of mud dust, blast with hose, dry and then plenty of dinitrol penetrating cavity wax pumped in there should have done the trick.

[Tractor Dave]

As mentioned. if you can, cut the rubber out. Either use a blowtorch and melt the rubber off, or use a holesaw without the arbour/pilotdrill. Then you should have plenty to weld something on left.

I drilled the rubber out and got the subframe down.


I then cleaned up the bolt and welded a nut on.


Came out nice and easy then.



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[fish]

As mentioned. if you can, cut the rubber out. Either use a blowtorch and melt the rubber off, or use a holesaw without the arbour/pilotdrill. Then you should have plenty to weld something on left.

[Tractor Dave]

On my car we had to cut windows in the chassis and fit new nuts

Hopefully I wont have to

[newsh]

On my car we had to cut windows in the chassis and fit new nuts

[newsh]

I was thinking maybe stuck on what’s left of the bolt..
You could try cutting out the rubber to leave the centre of the bush behind.

[Tractor Dave]

Hi Dave you undone all 4 bolts that attach the subframe to the body disconnected all the the brake pipes and handbrake cables, all the suspension components etc. Have you attempted brute force it could be the addition of corrosion around the mounts holding the subframe there not that heavy i managed to get mine off with a pry bar.

Yep, everything stripped. The bush must be rusted to what's left of the bolt. I will have to cut between the body and the subframe. I didn't want to do this as it makes getting the bolt out difficult. If you have an end you can weld a nut on then unscrew with ease